Shurcliff Garden Designs for the Historic Area

George H. Yetter

1983

Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Library Research Report Series -287
Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Library

Williamsburg, Virginia

1990

BENJAMIN WALLER
Block 1, Building 16

The plans for this garden were drawn in November, 1950 by Alden Hopkins and Don Parker in consultation with Arthur Shurcliff. The principle feature of a central arbor, surrounded with four diamond-shaped parterres, was derived from a plan of the original gardens in this location drawn by Miss Luty Blow, a great-granddaughter of the builder, Judge Benjamin Waller. The original Waller garden was a recreation of an 18th-century, Blow family garden at Tower Hill in Sussex County, Virginia. Tradition says that a Blow lady, who married into the Waller family, created it to keep alive memories of her happy childhood at Tower Hill.

BASSETTT HALL
Block 1, Building 22

Beginning in 1929, there were 62 landscape plans concerning Bassett Hall. They reflect the frequent changes and alterations following the annual trips and residency periods of the Rockefeller family, who were deeply interested and very much involved with all that was done at this location. To a large degree, results reflect the particular choices and desires of the Rockefellers, who were usually shown a variety of possible schemes for an area or feature—all compatible with 18th-century usage—and chose the one most appealing to them.

Concerning precedent for garden features at this site, Shurcliff's correspondence reveals the following facts, which are generally given in chronological order.

"Position of old outbuildings is characteristic. Location of turnaround at front door is known. Plan for the ground is based on these facts and on the assumption that the expected tenant … would like an arrangement of gardens recalling old work in the South."(Shurcliff letter, 12 April 1929, to Arthur Woods [Clyde's office])
"Regarding the circle to the front door, I drew this following the indications of an ancient circle which appears on the ground and which the family say was obliterated about twenty-five years ago."
(Shurcliff letter, 19 March 1931, to Perry, Shaw & Hepburn [CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2])
Several letters involve "the circle of [paper] Mulberry trees which was said to surround Bassett Hall once upon a time." (Shurcliff letter, 1 June 1931, to Arthur F. Perkins [CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2]) Alice C. Smith, who lived at Bassett Hall before the Restoration, writes describing mulberry trees extending across the back of the house and on each side (Letter, 11 June 1931, to Shurcliff) [CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 20]. This information was relayed to Perkins, Shurcliff's assistant, with a notation that it "will be of use in restoring the old layout." (Shurcliff letter, 15 June 1931, to Perkins [CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2)]
A Shurcliff telegram, 9 November 1931, to Perry, Shaw & Hepburn notes "… my old Bassett Hall garden of last year which Mr. David [John D. Rockefeller, Jr.] liked fits your revised scheme for mansion arranged with plan like Tuckahoe …" (CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2) In a 13 December 1935 letter to Mrs. N. A. Baker, a prospective purchaser of the Tuckahoe estate, Shurcliff mentions his own measured landscape plans for upwards of 100 southern places. Congratulating her on the expected ownership, he observed: "The arrangement of the grounds is one of the most authentic of all the old places. Many … were rearranged a hundred years ago, but those which escaped these changes were forced to run the gauntlet of neglect which followed the War between the states. Then came the new naturalistic School of Planning which spoiled so many of the early layouts … I found Tuckahoe one of the most interesting of all the places and one which preserved more faithfully than others the earmarks of the ancient designs."("Southern Places" folder, Clyde's office)
An extract from a Shurcliff letter discusses the Bassett Hall landscaping. "… studied Box layout of Dr. Van Garrett and Lottie Garrett to see the extent to which the box display proposed for Bassett Hall garden would be comparable. Was not sure that an orangery would be attractive or useful remembering the one at Versailles, but on glancing at the one at the Vest House and on hearing of the one at Wye House (Md.) thought the idea might have some merit …" (Shurcliff letter, 27 May 1931, to Perry, Shaw & Hepburn [CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2)]
A Shurcliff letter, 10 November 1931, to Perry, Shaw & Hepburn mentions that the utility building on the southeast side corresponds to buildings on the "Frenchman's Map." He continues: "Mr. Rockefeller showed some interest in the proposed orangery, which in relation to the garden occupies a position like the one at Wye House. This building would make a very delightful place to sit in the winter as it would face the south and might have attractive flowering plants, including oranges, arranged within. With regard to the Box… the thought has been to use fine Restoration Box here rather generously so this place would be one of the most interesting, if not the finest, as far as Box is concerned, barring the great Tree Box at the Palace."(CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll. Box 2)
An Arthur Woods letter, 27 November 1931, to Kenneth Chorley states: "Nelson [Rockefeller] called me up this morning and said … his mother felt strongly that she did not want an elaborate box garden; she has too much formal garden to take care of now at Pocantico. Tentatively, she thought there might be box on the long path, but not anywhere else."(CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2)
John D. Rockefeller, Jr. writes on 16 December 1931, to Shurcliff: "Mrs. Rockefeller approves and I authorize the planting of the box hedge either side of the vista from the gardens of Bassett Hall which looks toward the woods."(CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2) Also, Mrs. Rockefeller asked if a line of trees could grow together with the box along the vista to which Shurcliff replied that both would thrive due to the hot southern sun.
Shurcliff, in a 21 December 1931 letter to Rockefeller, observes: "One of the most attractive features which I anticipate in this garden will be the combination of very large trees which are already growing in the garden will be the combination of very large trees which are already growing in the garden and the smaller rows of new flowering trees in association with the box, in contrast with the flowers overhead, is very captivating and is characteristic of the old gardens in the South." He goes on to strongly recommend using a box hedge on both sides of the garden at right angles with the vista hedge. Such a plan "encloses this portion of the garden very pleasantly and in the Southern manner."(CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2)
Shurcliff notes that a photograph and working drawing of the Wye House Orangery in Maryland is contained in the Monograph Series edited and published by Russell F. Whitehead, fol. XVI, no. 5. (Shurcliff letter, 14 March 1932, to Perry, Shaw & Hepburn [CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2)]
Shurcliff, in an 8 February 1933 letter to Chorley, discusses the importance of the square dooryard developed separately from the carriage entrance drive and says that it is authentic according to Virginia precedents. Only two houses in Williamsburg—Bassett Hall and Tazewell Hall—are set back far enough to take on the appearance of a typical Southern home of the country type. Bassett Hall has always been the seat of a large landholder and it is to be expected that it would have the usual front yard near the house and then an axial carriage approach through the rough. To retain a separation of front yard and approach through the rough. To retain a separation of front yard and approach as expressed by the fence adds interest and dignity. Shurcliff notes that front yards were common at the largest places—Marmion, Mt. Airy, Westover, Ash Lawn, etc.—even though generally of small size and cut across by the approach drive. He concludes that: "The purpose of front yards throughout Virginia appears to have been to keep cattle away from the houses."(CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2) At this point, the folder contains photostats of his measured landscape plans for Delk Farm and Pleasant Point, both of which have approaches comparable to that at Bassett Hall. Later, he wrote: "At Bassett Hall … the avenue of approach, the front yard, the long vista into the woodlands, the larger gardens, give a hint of the grand manner of the old Virginia plantations."(Shurcliff letter, 13 February 1940, to T. Rutherfoord Goodwin [from "Garden Data for Guide Book," Clyde's office)]
Shurcliff bases the design for the front fence at Bassett Hall on a "scalloped pattern which showed on one of the water color drawings which Mr. Rockefeller bought in England."(Shurcliff letter, 21 June 1933, to Perry, Shaw & Hepburn [CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 2)]
Correspondence and four sketches concerning a south gate at the end of the box-edged, woods vista were studied in 1937. Thought was given to having some livestock and the problem arose of preserving views into or across pastures without necessary fences cutting across sight lines. Shurcliff observes that, in instances at Wye House and Mount Vernon, the question was solved by ha-ha walls and at Upper Bremo by a ha-ha ditch.(Shurcliff letter, 18 November 1937, to Kenneth Chorley [Clyde's office])

Following is a Shurcliff letter, 26 March 1934, with a short discussion of the Bassett Hall landscaping to a guide for the grounds during Garden Week.

March 26th, 1934.

Bassett Hall Gardens
Mrs. H. C. Krebs,
Chandler Court,
Williamsburg, Virginia

Dear Mrs. Krebs:

I am glad to hear by your letter of March 23rd that during Garden Week you are to be in charge of the garden at Bassett Hall. You speak of the design, plant1ng, history, or anything "connected therewith" in the past or contemplated. You also ask about the fence which forms the front yard. I answer your questions beginning in the order with the last one.

You are doubtless familiar with the Delk Farm, in Smithfield, Virginia. This has an approach like Bassett Hall and about the same length with a central avenue of trees and a front yard of about the same size. A similar layout of similar size is found at Pleasant Point, Surrey County. This arrangement was used, as you well know, to prevent cattle from entering the front yard in places where the plot of ground in front of the front yard was sufficiently large for pasturage purposes. Most of the houses in Williamsburg were set so near the street that there was no space for a separate front yard. At Bassett Hall, however, the house was set back more generously from the street and we really have in this layout the "feeling" of an old Southern plantation of good size. As you know, the property runs in a southerly direction for a very long distance covering several hundred acres although the actual width of frontage on Francis Street is made narrow owing to the constriction of the lateral lots.

Regarding history, I hope you have seen a copy of the Frenchman's Map and the Rochambeau Map. These layouts indicate a group of outbuildings east of Bassett Hall. This is substantiated by the actual excavations. During the course of restoration this arrangement of buildings has been adhered to. Other buildings may be added later to form a yard on the east side. On the opposite side of the house gardens were developed in relation to the living rooms and the master's approach. The very large ancient trees on the west were, of course, standing when the Restoration was undertaken but there were many more standing there were which were blown down during some of the heavy gales. The box and many of the flowering trees and plants were purchased from Southern Places.As you know, we have never purchased except in cases where the plants were liable to destruction or dispersion unless purchase were made.

Among the plants existing and set out are Hardy Oleander, Yaupon, Gardenia, Viburnum tinus, Lilac, Old Time Roses, Persimmon, Apple, Peach, Pomegranate, Crapemyrtle, Grape, Holly, 2 Kentucky Coffeetree, Buckeye, Elm, and the many other Southern trees with which you are familiar. The Weeping Cherry is modern.

Very few garden flowers have been planted as this work will be done later. The display of semi wild Jonquils is, however, one of the most extensive and beautiful in Williamsburg. There are also many primroses. There is much box, and the axis of the garden leads out to the woods where there is a characteristic vista.

Regarding the designs of all the Williamsburg places, including Bassett Hall, you realize of course that we depend on the old maps, letters of description, the actual excavations, findings on the ground, which were substantiated by old records and by the many dimensions which we made of upwards of one hundred Southern Places measured with the tape.

In case questions are asked about the front line fence on Francis Street, visitors will be interested that this design is very old and was found on an early painting of a Williamsburg scene. The painting was found in England and was sent to America for the use of the Restoration. In all our work we have had valuable and sympathetic aid from Miss Smith and from many neighbors.

I am planning to be in Williamsburg on Wednesday, the 28th. If you find this letter does not include all the points which interest you, please telephone me at the Restorat1on office and I shall be glad to answer any questions which occur to you. I am glad to hear you have access to the material in Williamsburg, relating to the house. That is, of course, of fundamental importance.

Thank you for sending me the extract from the Virginia Gazette regarding the Rev. Witherspoon, from Princeton. If you have not brought this to the attention of Mr. Harold Shurtleff I think he would be much interested to learn about it.

With kind regards, I am
Yours sincerely,

ARTHUR A. SHURCLIFF

Dictated by
Mr. Shurcliff
J-Copies to
Mr. Chorley, N. Y. & W.

P.S. Of course you will be sure to tell the visitors that you and I know so well that in Colonial times there was no effort toward naturalistic gardens. There were no rock gardens or natural gardens. Everything was symmetrical or rectangular or laid out according to a perfectly clear design. I think some visitors to Williamsburg do not understand that fact and that the modern naturalistic school did not make its appearance in England or in this country until sometime after the Revolution.

I am on my way to the train to Williamsburg and this letter will be typed and mailed to you. I think I may reach there almost as soon as the letter.

SEMPLE HOUSE (William Finnie)
Block 2, Building 7

Drawings, dated 30 March 1929, exist with an elaborate system of symmetrically arranged box parterres on the western third of the rear yard. These were never carried out but correspondence does exist presumably referring to the design. Shurcliff, writing to Arthur Woods, says: "Arrangement of grounds is based on description of tenant … It is felt that this place deserves rather generous treatment of the grounds in view of its historic significance." (Letter, 24 April, 1929; Shurcliff Coll., Clyde's Office)

A later (1931) "Minimum Plan for Peyton Randolph" [early name for Semple House] has a centrally located box parterre on each side of the central walk to the south in the rear yard. The first two squares center on circular forms, with the back two containing diamond-shaped forms. Again, this formation seems never to have been carried out.

Another drawing of the same year shows the complex as developed with what came to be labelled "4 turf parterres" in the 15 August 1951 landscape layout drawn by Alden Hopkins and executed in consultation with Shurcliff. The following Shurcliff letter seems to describe the grounds as developed. Studying his proposed plans with Shaw and Hepburn, he writes: "… after looking over the measured plan recently made of Marmion they agreed with Mr. Perry and me that the plan proposed for the path system for Peyton Randolph should be carried out as shown in the ink lines … I think it would be wise in the quadrangle bounded by the group of buildings to make all the paths of brick as at Marmion." (Letter, 16 November 1931, to Perry, Shaw & Hepburn, CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 26, "Landscaping—Semple, 1934/37")

Concerning the unimplemented, elaborate box garden to the west, Shurcliff writes: "Pattern of garden is adapted from Box Garden at Tuckahoe" (Letter, 24 April 1929 ["Regarding Landscape Development of Williamsburg Places"], to Arthur Woods) .

MOODY HOUSE
Block 2, Building 31

A rough, pencil plan of the grounds as they existed in the early 20th-century exists as drawn by a former resident, Miss Laetitia Roper of Richmond. While a Shurcliff letter to Goodwin refers to it "as a guide for the future layout" (CWF Archives, Perry, Shaw, Hepburn—Boston, Box 15, "Lee House" [Letter, 25 January 1929]) , the plan evidently represents the later period exclusively, because it bears little relation to the present design.

The Shurcliff plans of 1939/40—which were carried out—exist largely the same today, except that a paved arbor shown behind the dairy and smokehouse is no longer in place and the paved service court immediately behind the house was reduced in size to create a turf panel beneath the large beech tree. Minimal alterations by Don Parker in 1977 involved additional trees and an expanded garden reshaped from the earlier rectangular plan to an oval, together with two garden benches, in the south garden area.

ORRELL HOUSE
Block 2, Building 38

Simple Shurcliff plans, drawn in 1929/30, provide for a perimeter privet hedge, two hollies, a magnolia, and system of brick walks. A 1929 survey of existing conditions shows the central rear garden walk as an original feature which existed before restoration was begun. Concerning the walks, Shurcliff correspondence says: "the old splayed brick walk in front of the McCandlish House [early name for Orrell] is rather old and attractive. I say lets keep it as is …" (CWF Archives, Perry, Shaw, Hepburn-Boston, Box 15, "McCandlish House" [Shurcliff letter, 14 June 1929, to Perry, Shaw & Hepburn]). Another contemporary, and evidently unimplemented sketch, shows vegetable gardens and fruit trees with a central walk and bench—all located in the extreme southern section of the rear yard.

A 1936 Shurcliff plan gives the garden its present configuration. It provides for an elaboration of the grounds with a central grass panel enclosed in what appears to be dwarf box, together with installation of a bench on the south axis. The triangular, paved area in front of the kitchen was added in 1948 by Alden Hopkins.

Concerning the early layout, Shurcliff writes: "Old foundations of walks and buildings control this design… Future garden development after the manner of the Audrey [Brush-Everard] garden with similar arrangement of fences and trees" (from typescript booklet, "Letter to Colonel Arthur Woods from Arthur A. Shurtleff regarding Landscape Development of Williamsburg Places," 24 April 1929).

THE QUARTER
Block 2, Building 48

Only minimal landscape plans from 1929/30 by Shurcliff exist. These involve a perimeter hedge along the eastern property line and planting of two parcels of box immediately west of the house. Shurcliff's letter, "Regarding Landscape Development of Williamsburg Places" (24 April 1929) to Arthur Woods says: "… the ultimate design is based upon analogy."

BRACKEN HOUSE
Block 2, Building 52

The Shurcliff landscape drawing from 1936 was apparently never implemented. It shows a central walk with bilateral paths, intersected by three others, to form four rectangular grass panels centered on peach trees and with seats at the ends of the central side path. Although no plan for the existing scheme is contained within the files, it appears that the present design was developed following demolition of the modern kitchen wing to the southwest sometime after 1940.

Concerning the reasoning behind Shurcliff's design, he writes that: "Much knowledge of the old layout was secured from Mr. Clark, the old shoemaker who lived on this property before the Civil War and who remembers the height, location and fences. He states the rear grounds at that time were used for a tannery and that there were then no gardens or flowers" (from typescript booklet, Letter to Colonel Arthur Woods from Arthur A. Shurtleff regarding Landscape Development of Williamsburg Places," 24 April 1929).

LIGHTFOOT HOUSE:
Block 3, Building 10

Shurcliff drew up a plan of this site, labelled "Existing Conditions Dr. Goodwin's House," which shows a relatively undeveloped yard. The first, full-scale landscape plan showing conditions much as they are today was drawn by Shurcliff in 1940. Minor changes were made in 1961 by Don Parker when a reconstructed necessary house and garden benches were added.

The only available Shurcliff correspondence concerning the location dates from the 40's. Discussing the garden immediately behind the house, he says: "At the south two straight paths are arranged, the thought being one would be for service, the other for the master's approach" (CWF Archives, Block 3, Bldg. 10, "Allen-Byrd Landscaping" [Letter, 23 May 1940, to A. Edwin Kendrew]) Several months later, he writes that he has shifted the "northerly kitchen gate a little more to the north to come opposite the bulkhead, believing it would express the ancient relation of the kitchen garden to the basement of the mansion, through which basement the service to the dining room upstairs might have led" (CWF Archives, Block 3, Bldg. 10, "Allen-Byrd Landscaping" [Letter, 16 July 1940, to A. Edwin Kendrew]). Documentation suggests that arrangements here were especially thoroughly checked by Perry, Chorley, and ultimately approved by Mr. Rockefeller.

GEORGE JACKSON
Block 7, Building 14-A

Gardens designed in 1953 by Alden Hopkins in consultation with Shurcliff.

DAVID MORTON
Block 7, Building 15-A

Gardens designed in 1953 by Alden Hopkins and Don Parker in consultation with Shurcliff.

POWELL-WALLER
Block 7, Building 36

Gardens designed in 1955 by Alden Hopkins in consultation with Shurcliff.

BLUE BELL TAVERN
Block 8, Building 12-A

Gardens designed in 1951 by Alden Hopkins in consultation with Shurcliff.

DRAPER HOUSE
Block 8, Building 28

Gardens designed in 1950 by Alden Hopkins in consultation with Shurcliff.

NELSON-GALT HOUSE
Block 9, Building 7

Gardens designed in 1951 by Alden Hopkins and Don Parker in consultation with Shurcliff.

PALMER HOUSE
Block 9, Building 24

There are several Shurcliff drawings done in 1933 for about garden to be located immediately to the west of the house. Enclosed within an original existing brick wall, one has two garden areas—a central, grass circle edged with box and a rectangular lawn, edged with symmetrically arranged cedars, leading to a conservatory. This was an existing 1850's orangery, since wrecked. A variant of this box garden has a circular, compartmented plan with paths radiating from a central sundial. Evidently, neither design was ever carried out. A drawing of existing conditions by Shurcliff in 1929, shows sections of brick garden walks in excellent condition at the rear of the south dooryard.

A Moorehead drawing of 1934 shows the Blair Street line which formerly ran just east of the house at a right angle to Duke of Gloucester Street. The garden in this location, and currently associated with this site, was created by Hopkins in 1951.

Shurcliff says: "These already attractive grounds are only slightly changed to make them more convenient and to attempt to restore the garden which is said to have occupied the grounds south of the existing Orangery. The cruciform paths which were discovered during the excavation on the south lawn are said by the present tenant to be very modern." ("Letter to Colonel Arthur Woods from Arthur A. Shurtleff regarding Landscape Development of Williamsburg Place," 24 April 1929, typescript booklet)

MAROT'S ORDINARY
Block 9, Building 26-B

1953 Hopkin's plan in consultation with Shurcliff.

JOHN COKE OFFICE
Block 9, Building 27

A 1930 Shurcliff "Minimum Layout" shows only nominal work here. A square garden, enclosed by a hawthorn hedge and divided diagonally in half to form two triangles, is shown behind the house. The present scheme, created in 1958 by Hopkins, changes this configuration entirely into a central path which splits to form a "Y" as it approaches the house.

CHARLTON HOUSE
Block 9, Building 3C

A 1929 Shurcliff "Ultimate Layout" shows extensive garden development stretching south behind the house to Francis Street. Also included is a rectangular box garden divided into two compartments centering on circular box arrangements. These were probably never carried out. The present layout of kitchen gardens and orchard, on each side of a central garden path, was designed in 1950 by Hopkins in consultation with Shurcliff.

DR. BARRAUD HOUSE
Block 1C, Building 1

The present landscape layout was designed by Shurcliff in 1941 and further developed by Hopkins in 1942. Several small Shurcliff sketches exist for various details (topiary, parterres, etc.) which were never implemented.

LEWIS HOUSE
Block 10, Building 2

1948 Hopkin's plan in consultation with Shurcliff.

BRICK HOUSE TAVERN
Block 10, Building 10-B

A 1939 Shurcliff plan shows minimal landscape work, but does record the location of the "line of brick drain" across the back door yard area.

ORLANDO JONES
Block 10, Building 16-A

S 1939 Shurcliff plan shows the elegant design of garden oval, rectangular turf panels, and garden benches still associated with this site. Little correspondence concerning the location exists. However, Shurcliff does state that the layout follows outlines on the "Frenchman's Map." (Letter, 14 August 1939, to S. P. Moorehead [CWF Archives]). Another letter says that he placed some outbuildings and developed gardens according to archaeological excavations made on the grounds

JAMES ANDERSON
Block 10, Building 22

A 1940 Shurcliff plan shows the garden largely as it exists at present.

GEORGE REID HOUSE
Block 11, Building 11

1930 Shurcliff plans show the rectangular box garden in the rear yard at this site. Modifications, evidently after 1940, include the peach trees planted in the rectangular box garden, alteration of the path system, and addition of benches. Concerning the work here, Shurcliff says: "Much indication of old layout available on the grounds. … The extension of the old Box planting is based on the layout at the old Audrey [Brush-Everard] place."

Attached is a Shurcliff description of the George Reid garden.

GEORGE REID HOUSE (Modern Name)
CAPTAIN ORR'S GARDEN

Copy from the Office of Arthur A. Shurcliff.

Duke of Gloucester Street, corner of Colonial Street No. 18 on the key map.

The Orr Garden ranks second to the Brush Garden in the age of some of its box hedges which have stood in this garden since early times. Still remaining in its ancient axial position, leads the path to the south door of the house. Nearby stands the ancient wellhouse, and an old outbuilding. A fowl-house may be seen which though less than a century in age, is of the type used in colonial times.

The intimacy of the garden and outbuildings with the everyday life of the colonial household is well exemplified and the place has required little restoration. To save space, the ancient paths were made straight and narrow, and were placed for the most direct communication but always with an aim to avoid curves which were rarely used by the planners of those days. Shade trees were needed under the high sun of this latitude, but the sheer beauty of trees, flowering plants, and box was not overlooked for its own sake as an essential in the everyday life. The Captain's smithy stood in the southerly unrestored part of the lot and nearby was stable and paddock. Fruit trees and a vegetable garden were included.

If evidences other than the orderly layout of this plot of ground are needed to show the artistic sense of the townsman, the visitor should notice the architectural niceties of the dwelling and even of the well-house. The gate latches resemble those at Mount Vernon.

from Shurcliff, "Garden for Guide Book" (typescript booklet), 13 February 1940

WILLIAM LIGHTFOOT HOUSE
Block 11, Building 14

A series of undated, Shurcliff landscape record plans, probably ca. 1931, show existing conditions before restoration together with the proposed garden which was extremely simple—having minimal shrubbery and pathway systems.

WILLIAM LIGHTFOOT KITCHEN
Block 11, Building 14-E

1948 plans by Hopkins exist for this site. The property was evidently previously undeveloped, although Shurcliff plans exist for a box-edged, rectangular garden on the site.

MARKET SQUARE TAVERN
Block 12, Building 13

Several 1931 Shurcliff plans show decreasing elaboration of the garden layout. The southern door yard began with four symmetrically arranged trees in the corners of a brick-paved area. This evolves into a grass plot crossed by unevenly angled paths leading to the kitchen and rear garden plot, which was reduced from three panels to two. The scheme was renovated in 1954 by Hopkins with no changes to the general plan.

Early correspondence gives no clues concerning design precedent. A reference was made to reconstruction of outbuildings on the property in positions shown on early insurance plats (CWF Archives, Shurcliff Coll., Box 30, "Market Square Tavern.")

GREENHOW-REPITON HOUSE
Block 13, Building 19-A

A 1938 Shurcliff sketch shows the quincuncial garden, of four corner beds with a central, circular grass plot, much as it exists today. Behind this, is shown a vegetable garden, as you approach the garage on the lower level to the south.

A Shurcliff letter, 10 January 1938, to Kenneth Chorley mentions that he used the "Frenchman's Map" as a guide and that, since there are four tenants on the property, he will divide the plots of ground and provide separate paths of approach. Another Shurcliff letter, 17 February 1938, to Chorley mentions a recent meeting in Williamsburg between Chorley, Perry, Kendrew, and himself. He says that alterations from his first design reflect their ideas—the rectangular flower garden is transformed into a circular one, with a small vegetable garden on the flat ground to the south. A Chorley letter, 14 March 1938, to Kendrew gives insight into how final decisions were actually made. "This morning, Mr. Perry, Mr. Shurcliff, and I had a conference with Mr. Rockefeller, Jr. with reference to the landscaping plan for the Repiton House and the plan… was approved with the exception of the vegetable garden on the south end of the garden which we wish eliminated." (These three letters are from CWF Archives, Block/Bldg. Files, "Repiton." )

CUSTIS-MAUPIN HOUSE
Block 13, Building 26-A

The elaborate box parterre immediately west of the house first appears on a 1931 Shurcliff layout. The material is specified as dwarf box and the design incorporates four Crosses of St. Andrew. A 1933 "Maupin House Flower Garden Plan" specifies the panels to be planted with sweet marjoram, sternbergia, phlox, ranunculus, columbine, snapdragon, sweet William lavender, iris, gladiolus, lychnis, achillea, poppies, doronicum, pinks rosemary, thyme, crysanthemum, eupatorium, fall crocus, wallflowers, mint, and flax. A Hopkins landscape plan of 1960 notes that the parterre garden area is to be held undisturbed.

The following information is all that exists in early correspondence files concerning the development of gardens at this site. Items are from CWF Archives, Block/Bldg. Files, "Maupin-Dixon." Arthur F. Perkins writes Shurcliff on 25 August 1931 that: "Miss Maupin told me that she remembered her mother's having told her that a long time ago, within the memory of her mother but not within her own, there were terraces in the rear of the Maupin lot." A Shurcliff letter, 25 September 1931, to Perkins says: "Attached … is a scheme for the Maupin garden, which as you see is moved up near the street in accordance with the wish of Colonel Woods and Mr. Chorley, and approved by Mr. Perry, Mr. Shaw and Mr. Hepburn in New York and Boston at a second conference today." Later information from minutes shows that this was done "with the idea of visibility of the garden particularly in mind" (Extract from minutes of conference held in New York, 25 Sep. 1931). A Chorley letter to Shurcliff advises that the plan "seemed very good" to Mr. Rockefeller who, also, specifically asks that a large crepe myrtle be planted in the yard.

Summarizing the research work and precedents for the layout at this location, Shurcliff states that Sauthier's 18th-century maps of North Carolina were consulted for patterns of the gardens; that the brick and gravel paths and their location were chiefly assumed; and, concerning the flower gardens, that: "18th century existence in doubt, Present flower garden assumed" (Shurcliff letter, 10 February 1940, "Record of Landscaping," to Kenneth Chorley [Typescript pamphlet]) .

TALIAFERRO-COLE
Block 13, Building 40

In 1940 Shurcliff landscape plan, although having the same configuration, contains a greater diversity of plants than today. The earlier vegetable garden and vineyard areas appear larger than at present.

Meager correspondence in the Foundation Archives has uncovered the following information concerning design development:

Shurcliff, in a 3 January 1941 letter, to Albert Edwin Kendrew comments that: "It would be amusing to add a parapet of brick to the retaining wall if that could be justified." This item was approved. He goes on to suggest a "diaphanous" fence along the Duke of Gloucester Street sidewalk in order to give the greatest possible visibility to the garden. A later notation at the side says: "No; Millington print shows board fence."

A Kendrew memorandum to files, 20 May 1941, discusses objections to the fence form, which ultimately was developed, and explains that it "had been designed following indications on the water color drawing by Millington dated 1834. Further, this fence coincided in design with the early nineteenth century period of the house … Civil War photographs showed that fences of this kind were prevalent throughout the section in the nineteenth century."

Another Kendrew letter, 14 January 1941, to Shurcliff observes that property line fences "should be 4' 6" high in accordance with general eighteenth century ordinances."

Shurcliff offers an illuminating detail, in a 15 January 1941 letter to Kendrew, when he notes his delight at recent approval to vary "the pattern to accentuate the foot-ways and to indicate changes and additions were made during the many years." (This information was all taken from: CWF Archives, Block 13, Bldg. 40, "Taliaferro-Cole")

BRYAN HOUSE
Block 14, Building 15-A

Drawings show that the elaborate gardens immediately west of the house evolved from a simple, symmetrically arranged "fruit and flower garden" containing grass panels edged by box in July, 1941, through a more complicated, formal, quincuncial arrangement of four beds and central round box, to today's plan of quincuncial center with two rectangular, box-edged panels at the lateral ends. The earlier layouts are by Shurcliff, and the third—obviously developed from them—was drawn by Alden Hopkins in consultation with Shurcliff in December, 1941. A sketch for the topiary hen and chickens, now in place, is dated July, 1968 and is without notation as to its creator.

Concerning development of the landscape scheme, research in the Foundation Archives uncovered the following correspondence:

Alden Hopkins, in a 16 October 1941 letter to Shurcliff, writes: "We found from excavations that an old fence (post hole) line had existed along the west boundary which accurately determined its direction and southwest corner… By checking with the Sauthier maps of North Carolina towns and their house and garden relationship and designs, I have evolved a typical period layout." He goes on to discuss the garden in the center of which "is a small bird house on a decorative post copied from an old eighteenth century one on the Eastern Shore … The dwarf pear at the corners would repeat the character so often seen in Kip's engravings and other old prints of having the shrub or tub or plant at the corners of the beds."

Discussing his own "scholarly approach to find a solution to landscape layout," Shurcliff, in a 28 November 1941 letter, writes Kendrew that "… the Sauthier plans show that the transverse cross axes were generally arranged symmetrically even though nearby buildings were highly unsymmetrical in relation to the garden pattern."

An illuminating detail is contained in a Shurcliff letter, 20 January 1942, to Kendrew. "Suggested to Mr. Hopkins that the path with the most elaborate brick patterns reminiscent of marmion would be the more appropriate if placed parallel with the south side of the main house, thus connecting the south steps with the street and garden." (All letters taken from: CWF Archives, Block 14, Bldg. 15-A, "Bryan House")

BLAIKLEY-DURFEY
Block 14, Building 16-C

The landscape plans, dated May, 1951, were drawn up by Alden Hopkins and Don Parker in consultation with Shurcliff. The features include: orchard and kitchen garden, pleasure garden, kitchen yard, and a small street garden incorporating a figure-8 plan centering on two "antique box specimens from Travis garden."

ALEXANDER CRAIG
Block 17, Building 5

An unsigned plot plan for this property, dated December, 1940, has the notation: "lot to scale Sauthier Map of Halifax, N.C." A very simple system of paths is all that is shown. A June, 1941 landscape plan by Shurcliff has the same configuration, with the addition of the rectangular garden as it exists today. Shurcliff's note for this says: "Flower garden 33' X 95' gross. 3-foot brick paths, running bond, 275'. 10 plum trees like those at Taliaferro-Cole. 410' box edging 9". For south half of garden two rows of tree box 35' each, 2-foot size, with grass between. Scallop shell edging around central circular bed." the final planting plan was drawn by Alden Hopkins in September, 1941.

Research in CWF Archives uncovered the following information concerning design development:

In a 27 July 1929 memorandum to Singleton P. Moorehead, Duncan M. Cocke says that approval has been received from residents to carry out archaeological excavations at this site. Presumably, these would have been studied by Shurcliff and influenced his layout.

A Shurcliff letter, 26 December 1939, to E. R. Holland discusses "the extraordinary well-preserved brick path recently unearthed in the lot east of the Raleigh Tavern." After careful inspection, it was reburied for preservation but Shurcliff mentions alternate methods for raising it intact to the present higher grade level.

A. E. Kendrew received an 18 June 1841 letter from Shurcliff covering site design which suggests: "The interest of the view [from Raleigh Tavern] would be still further increased, I think, if the small westerly garden were made more intricate, as shown. The design is somewhat like the one on the New Bern sheet of Sauthier, at a point about 1 inch below the words 'Race Ground.'" (All correspondence from CWF Archives, Block 17, Bldg. 5, "Alexander Craig")

PRENTIS HOUSE
Block 17, Building 11-A

There is an extant "Sketch showing Layout of Prentis House, Grounds and Dependencies in 1765 based on excavated original Foundations and Documents" drawn by S. P. Moorehead and dated 30 September 1937. This shows the rectangular, rear garden configuration, which was later developed by Shurcliff. Shurcliff's landscape plan is dated 7 December 1938 and uses the earlier information as a basis on which to design a "large garden," "east garden," paddock, and peach orchard. The axial walkway from the rear door extends through the parterre, past the stable to Nicholson Street. At the center is a formal box garden, centered on quadruple panels planted with roses. The two end panels are centered with pear trees.

Research in the CWF Archives uncovered no additional material. However, Shurcliff's detailed explication of the garden development for this site mentions that the "Frenchman's Map" was used in fence placement and that Sauthier's maps of North Carolina towns (1769)—especially Edenton—also show use of garden "squares" (Shurcliff letter, 10 February 1940, "Record of Landscaping," to Kenneth Chorley.

The principal guide and source of inspiration was Joseph Prentis' "Garden Book" with entries covering the years 1784 through 1788, together with his "Monthly Kalender," or garden record for the years 1775-1779, which particularly concerns planting of vegetables and their necessary monthly care. The paths, Shurcliff says, are also based on this manuscript description of his garden by Prentis. Further, Shurcliff continues: "Pages 1-6 of the "Garden Book" determined the layout of the garden as now restored. The old garden was divided into 'squares,' one being 'next chimney.' Another 'square' is referred to as 'next Street.' These two 'squares," one to contain Rape Seed and the other Carrots cast light on the layout in combination with the notations that there was an 'East Garden' and a 'Large Garden'" (Shurcliff letter, 10 February 1940, op. cit.) Immediately following are two Shurcliff letters concerning this garden.

THE PRENTIS GARDEN

Duke of Gloucester Street, corner of Botetourt Street No. 28A on the key map.

The Prentis place fully restored on old foundations and from old plans and descriptions, shows how completely the eighteenth century town garden depended for its position and pattern upon the location of the dwellings, the outbuildings, and the boundaries of the lot. Yet, at the same time, the garden gained enormously in interest by the presence of the very fences and buildings which controlled its location and determined the location and pattern of the paths. To the visitor of our day, the absence of modern hackneyed birdbath, pergola, wellhead, and the omnipresent rockery adds a delight. Practical combination of vegetable raising with herbs as decorative features with roses, box, and fruit trees is a delight to the garden lover who knows no bread-and-butter return from his pleasure ground.

This typical town lot and garden is a counterpart on a small scale of the great Southern places, — at the beginning comes the front yard at the mansion door, then at the rear stands the back yard with a vista of the mansion passing through and flanked by major outbuildings, then in orderly position stands the garden with its typical Southern rectangular panels, the whole flanked by the usual garden-houses. Yet, because this is a town lot, the long vistas which open from the great places must terminate, and at the Prentis place in a paddock and orchard on the back street where the stable must be place.

The tourist who has visited the Prentis place and the two gardens previously described is now ready to view the many gardens of the Governor's Palace, with the related outbuildings, vistas, and the combination of compact thrifty alignment with distinguished architectural charm.

from: Arthur A. Shurcliff letter, "Garden Data for Guide Book," 13 February 1940, to T. Rutherfoord Goodwin (Typescript pamphlet in Clyde's Office)

Analysis of Plan giving reasons for adoption of features not sufficiently described above.

The Joseph Prentis records indicate the place was occupied by a family in comfortable circumstances and evidently interested in the amenities of town life. See in the archaeological records the Joseph Prentis "Garden Book" (Manuscript Collection of Dr. Robert H. Webb). The dates of the entries are 1784, 1786, 1787, 1788. See also the "Monthly Kalender". A garden record made by Joseph Prentis in an account book for the years 1775-1779 from manuscript collection of Dr. Robert H. Webb. These two records are compiled on 37 typewritten sheets of the Archaeological Department. (I suggest an entry here recording briefly with reference notes the business and social life of the Prentis Household and some account of the character of Prentis.

The location of the lot, commanding the south and west and at the intersection of two of the widest streets, is one of the most notable in Williamsburg. Important foot and wheel travel of the town passed this lot, the House of Burgesses was in sight, and nearby stood well-known taverns, shops, and the remarkable Dr. Carter's establishment.

The "Kalender" gives minute directions for the planting of the garden vegetables and their care month by month, with the kinds of soil treatment and the success of the crops.

Pages 1-6 of the "Garden Book" determined the layout of the garden as now restored. The old garden was divided into squares", one being "next chimney". Another "square" is referred to as "nex street". Those two "squares", one to contain Rape Seed and the other Carrots cast light on the layout in combination with the notations that there was an "East Garden" (see page 3) and a "Large Garden" (also page 3). The last two references led to the restoration of an assumed fence which apparently ran north from the northwesterly corner of the kitchen (it divided the "East Garden" from the "Large Garden") and which incidentally governed the assumed location for the easterly gardenhouse. On page 3 "Yard Pales" are mentioned, which we believe to indicate a fence connecting the northerly ends of the kitchen with the storehouse. On page 5 "North Paling" is mentioned which coincides with the east-west fence shown by the Frenchman's Map. This was restored and crystallized the probable north-to-south location of the two characteristic summerhouses.

The frequent mention of "square" in combination with the known use of a pattern of such "squares" in Virginia Gardens of the 18th century (Brandon for example) led logically to the path pattern used in the restoration, the main north-south path being placed on the axis of the north door of the house. At the western edge of the garden a fence placed asymmetrically with the one already mentioned at the northwest corner of the kitchen-wash house made a logical relation to the design of "square". As these two fences could not have been intended as barriers they were restored as vine supports for peas and beans, and we used a design common in Holland. See paintings by Pister DeHooch in [illegible] Der Funst, painted about 1656, entitled "The Soap Bubbles" and "The Flower Garden", photostatic copies in Restoration files. On the typewritten copy of the John Prentis Garden Book and "Kalender", page 1, reference is made to rose bushes which were apparently few in number. Elsewhere in the records reference is made to herbs and box. It seemed a reasonable supposition that these materials might have been used in a restrained decorative manner in the central portion of the "Large Garden" where four rose bushes were installed in the restoration with low box edging around the four corresponding "squares". To have continued the box borders more extensively would have seemed out of keeping with the records, and consequently borders of wood (sometimes referred to in New England as "alleyboards") were placed around the edges of the paths as shown on the Bodleian plate at the front of the Wren Building and in 17th century pictures of gardens in Holland. See engraving by P. Van Der Heyde, 1570, entitled "Springtime" and an illustration entitled "Furttenbach's Garden at Ulm" 1641, taken from "Garden Craft in Europe" by Inigo Triggs. (See photostatic copies in Restoration files).

The vegetables planted in the restoration throughout the gardens were taken from the Prentis lists and wherever indicated the ancient "squares" were appropriately filled. Shade trees in the restoration were planted between the storehouse and kitchen and elsewhere where shad must have been required in colonial times, especially during the afternoon of mid summer. In the late summer of 1939 the shade near the north sides of the storehouse and kitchen-washhouse was not sufficient for comfort, and will be made ample during the spring of 1940. Only plant materials known to have been used by the Virginia Colonists during the 18th century were used. See details on the Record Landscape Plan. Clipped trees of hemlock were set in the restoration along the south side of the mansion where moderate shading of the ground appeared desirable and in a decorative manner, corresponding to the space between windows.

The paddock south of the stable assumed, also the existence of a peach orchard opposite the paddock with a fence to separate the two.

Paths were built where necessary for approach to the buildings and to define the "squares" of the Prentis Manuscript.

The large Prentis mansion when viewed with the kitchen, storehouse, orchard and the stable, presented an air of established comfort almost amounting to affluence. Yet affluence was held in check by the very size of the practical looking outbuildings and the extent of the garden, which, except for a few roses, showed only vegetables. At every hand was seen thrift of a generous unstinted kind. In 18th century Williamsburg, thrift was greatly needed since the community could not depend for its support chiefly upon supplies brought to town from a distance, roads being worse than poor and horses the power for transportation. The more nearly self-supporting the place the greater its comfort, and the more it typified the life of those citizens who throve other than by the uncertain returns of shop-keeping.

from: Arthur A. Shurcliff letter, 10 February 1940 ("Record of Landscaping") to Kenneth Chorley [Typescript pamphlet in Clyde's office]

PITT-DIXON HOUSE
Block 18, Building 4-B

Shurcliff's 11 June 1936 "Landscape Plan" contains a stableyard, fruit garden, flower garden, vegetable garden, and grass plot. The flower garden is composed of a sequence of four rectangular panels—box-edged and centered with tree box. Crepe myrtles and Russian olives are also included.

Concerning the paths here, Shurcliff writes that: "the design was determined by the position of fences, the remains of old terrace slopes, and the doors to the several buildings. In addition, a rectangular checkerboard was assumed to be appropriate to the station of the owner." (Shurcliff letter, 13 February 1940, "Garden Data for Guidebook," to T. Rutherfoord Goodwin [Typescript pamphlet in Clyde's office]) No material was found in the CWF Archives concerning this site.

LUDWELL-PARADISE HOUSE
Block 18, Building 7

A September, 1928 preliminary sketch landscape plan exists showing a configuration completely different from what was ultimately done. A bifurcated path leads from the back door to formally arranged "flower garden" located approximately where the present-day reconstructed Kitchen now sits. Surveys and archaeological studies from the early '30s show the existence of diagonal walks from the Kitchen to the privy and well. These were incorporated into Shurcliff's 30 January 1931 landscape plan, which shows the axial walk which today leads from the house to the box gardens. Originally, this walk was laid continuing through the center of the boxwoods to the stable yard. The configuration of the parterre was in six panels. Each of the middle two contained semicircular growths of box with the four end panels having straight runs of box along the walk. Evidently, these became overgrown and, in 1949, were revised by Alden Hopkins in consultation with Shurcliff. The central brick walk and crosswalks were removed and areas of the box were relocated forming the configuration as it is today with a central grass panel and lateral gravel paths. Following is Shurcliff description of the design evolution of the gardens which states that the precedent for the original parterre was early gardens at Port Royal.

March 13, 1933

PARADISE
ARTHUR A. SHURCLIFF
LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT
11 BEACON STREET, BOSTON, MASS.
Kenneth Chorley, Esq.,
P. O. Box 685,
Williamsburg, Virginia

Dear Mr. Chorley:

Below is a draft of the briefest description which I have been able to devise of the Paradise Place, in response to Mr. Norton's request. If you or he find this is too condensed or otherwise unsuitable I will try again.

GROUNDS OF THE PARADISE HOUSE

When the restoration of the grounds around the Paradise House was undertaken no other ancient building stood on the lot, and there were no old paths visible. Excavations soon revealed the brick foundations of the ancient kitchen, also the brick-lined well, and the diagonal brick path which led to the smoke house. The positions of the lateral fences and the stable were determined from old deeds. The westerly entrance path was built as an essential to the cellar doors. The two lateral garden paths at the north were derived from similar paths shown on Sauthier's measured plans, made before the Revolution, of Southern places.

The pattern of the Box garden was taken from old Box gardens at Port Royal, Virginia. The holly trees, holly hedges, hibiscus, redbud, hackberry, crapemyrtle, locust and other [illegible], are kinds used before the Revolution. The screens of slats placed over the recently planted box to protect it from the sun will be removed next season. Flowers of kinds used in Colonial times will be planted then in the garden. The fences, gate hinges, and latches are copied from old examples.

I am sending a copy of this to Williamsburg so Mr. Harold Shurtleff can look it over to catch any errors I may have made in mentioning the buildings and property lines.

Yours very truly,

Arthur A. Shurcliff

Dictated by
Mr. Shurcliff
[illegible] Copies to
Mr. Chorley — New York.
P.S. & H. — B. & W.

THE RED LION
Block 18, Building 23-A

Research indicates that archaeological work was done early in 1938 so that landscape plans could be more authentically developed. A Shurcliff letter, 26 July 1938, to Kenneth Chorley describes somewhat this development. He says: "Last week at Williamsburg I thought out with Mr. Kendrew's scheme for landscaping the Blair place and am drawing this to scale to go over with Mr. Perry when he returns … The unusual contour of the ground suggests 18th century grading and I am using this in hope of developing a garden different from any we have built."

Another Shurcliff letter gives insight into the original conception of use for the principal garden feature. In a 10 August 1936 letter to Chorley, he explains: "The sunken grass panel would be used for 18th century games like those listed by Mrs. Bullock, perhaps Four Corners, a species of bowling, or Pall Mall, a variety of croquet with only one wicket."

A 24 October 1938 Shurcliff drawing of an octagonal sunken panel in the ground at the rear of this site was incorporated into his landscape plan of the same year. This last plan includes the bifurcated walkway from the back door to the rectangular garden and, beyond it, a horseshoe-shaped flower garden surrounded by hemlock. The sunken grass panel at the center is unique in the Historic Area and relatively sophisticated due to the canted seat locations at the four corners.

Further garden details are covered by the following excerpts from a Shurcliff letter, 17 December 1943, to A. Edwin Kendrew. "… we [Shurcliff and W. G. Perry] advise Live Oaks around the north, east and west sides of the garden with 'returns' of four oaks in what might be called the Plaisance immediately north of the house. The twenty-two trees [live oaks] surrounding the garden would be allowed to grow together as an aerial hedge in the 18th century manner, as originally intended by the garden scheme, being an attractive treatment we have not used elsewhere in Williamsburg and which would be specially appropriate here because the central panels of the garden are sunken. The adjacent foliage would unite. Headroom would be maintained everywhere from 6½ to 7 feet and the tops would be kept as low and as narrow in spread as the thrift of the trees will allow. All letters referred to above are from CWF Archives, Block 18, Bldg. 23-A, "Dr. Blair's House."

The letter immediately following seems to explain why a brick wall was constructed at this location, aside from the fact that the Advisory Board of Architects recommended several such walls along Duke of Gloucester Street.

THE GEORGE WYTHE HOUSE
WILLIAMSBURG
VIRGINIA

February 4, 1931

PARADISE HOUSE
Mr. Arthur A. Shurcliff
11 Beacon Street
Boston, Mass.

My dear Mr. Shurcliff:

Will you let me suggest to you the thought of a wall around the Paradise property which might include the lot to the west of the Paradise House? It is in your mind, I am sure, that the Advisory Architects unanimously recommended that at certain points along the Duke of Gloucester Street walls, similar to the one at Bruton, should be built. The Paradise property would lend itself admirably to this treatment as it would constitute the east terminal of the Green. The west terminal of the two Greens is the wall of Bruton Church.

Faithfully yours,

Wm. A. R. Goodwin

Copies to:
Williamsburg Holding Corporation
Perry, Shaw and Hepburn,
Williamsburg, and Boston

G/B

GEORGE WYTHE HOUSE
Block 21, Building 4

The chronology of landscape development as reflected in drawings presently available in the Architectural Drawings Archive is as follow. "Existing Conditions at Wythe House," 1 December 1928, drawn by Arthur Perkins for Shurcliff, notes: "sections of brick path excavated" in the area immediately behind the house and on axis with the door. "Ultimate Layout for Wythe House" 11 March 1929, shows the area directly behind the house as an open, rectangular grass panel, with three formal parterres to the south along the Bruton Churchyard wall.

Shurcliff's own abbreviated explanation of this early garden design—which was never carried out—is contained in his 24 April 1929 letter, "Regarding Landscape Development of Williamsburg Places," to Col. Arthur Woods. He says: "Design is based on foundations of old well, old shed and the foundations which have been preserved at the north. Other records indicating the ancient layout of the place may be found. Until such time, the proposed design should be considered as tentative. The three gardens are in the manner of those at Westover …"

"Landscape Plan," 20 June 1929, has the entire central, rear yard labelled "The Green." An axial, central walk leads through the first half leaving the westernmost portion as an uninterrupted grass panel. The area next to Bruton is shown as "Vegetable Garden" and ground immediately south of the house, near the well, is noted as "Herb Garden." An arbor is shown at the west end of the green, and two garden houses on the southern periphery. This design was, evidently, largely carried out.

Alden Hopkins, in a 1960 design, demolished the extreme western end of the open, grass panel and the arbor, dovecote, etc. were moved closer to the house.

Research in the Foundation Archives uncovered the following information. A. E. Kendrew, in a 23 June 1939 letter to Shurcliff, explains the rationale behind construction of the fence running from the north house facade to the west. "…the Frenchman's Map clearly shows a fence here. Further, it will have the advantage of separating even more the long string of service buildings and service yards from the main garden." References in the same file indicate that study was made of recollections concerning a former flower garden at the site by former residents, Mary Sherwell and Kate Millington Blankenship.

In a 29 may 1939 letter to Kendrew, Shurcliff says: "At the end of the lawn I have raised the ground locally 16" to make a raised terrace which might easily have disappeared during the past century or more by modern gardening operations. Wouldn't it be a good idea to lift the end of the vista in this manner to five a little more character to the termination?" He goes on to say that he espouses "a plain open lawn on the west side flanked by the enclosing high and beautiful hedge and accented by columnar clipped work, or perhaps large shade trees." These shade trees—sycamores—were later planted, but have since been mostly removed due to their overwhelming scale.

An interesting conjecture is implied in a 24 January 1940 letter from Shurcliff to T. Rutherfoord Goodwin. He observes that paths have been built on sites discovered through excavation. Further, Shurcliff says: "These paths imply the Mall and its flanking trees, an implication characteristic of Virginia in the 18th century."

Following implementation of the first landscape plan, there are several references to the fact that Mr. Rockefeller wanted the central grass area made more elaborate—perhaps articulated with topiary trees. Shurcliff, in a 2 March 1940 letter to Kendrew, describes a visit he and Kenneth Chorley made to the site. "He felt, and I agree, that we ought to brace up the layout so it would not look so uninteresting and thin. We seem to have overdone the simplicity attributable to George Wythe. He goes on to advocate clipped trees along the mall as in "Britannia Illustrata." Concerning this feature, Shurcliff wrote Chorley on 2 March 1940 that he "worked out a scheme for the Mall which will cheer it up but not beyond a reasonable George Wythe simplicity." Incidentally, the Research Department determined at the time that Shurcliff's favored term of "Mall," in reference to the open greensward, was improperly used. Clipped hemlocks were soon after installed and later died.

An intriguing notes from Fiske Kimball to Caroline Sinkler of Ambler, Pennsylvania on 1 April 1940 asks permission for Shurcliff to visit her gardens at "The Highlands." He assures her that it is the "best model for a Southern air in maintenance." Exactly how or what way this site may have influenced work on the Wythe garden remains unknown.

W. G. Perry, in a 16 January 1940 letter to Kendrew, describes his own desire to enhance and emphasize original features, while downgrading the hypothetical and unproven. Brick walks were to be used as far west as the central cross walk [now removed], as archaeological evidence proved they once were. The remainder of the walks continued to and through the western arbor in marl.

All of the letters referred to above are from CWF Archives' Shurcliff Collection or Block/Bldg. files. The following Shurcliff letter elucidates further the work at this site.

January 24, 1940.


T. Rutherfoord Goodwin, Esq.
Colonial Williamsburg, Inc.
Williamsburg, Virginia. Wythe Landscaping

Dear Mr. Goodwin:

I am glad to hear by yours of the 16th the hostesses are to be familiarized with the Wythe biography, architecture, and proposed furnishings of the building. As you say, they ought to be equally well informed about the gardens and grounds. Enclosed is a blueprint of the archaeological plan and the layout, the latter having descriptive items. At a glance you will see the most important paths we have built lie on the sites of those discovered by excavating. These paths imply the Mall and its flanking trees, an implication characteristic of Virginia in the 18th century. A glance shows the buildings are on old sites. It seemed reasonable to suppose from the size and nearness of the many outbuildings, that the chief interest of the owners and tenants was, what shall I say, utilitarian but with a very generous and understanding hand, certainly as far as the grounds are concerned. Consequently, we assumed no elaborate flower gardens existed but probably a good sized vegetable and fruit garden with a chance for kitchen herbs between the scullery and the basement entrance. The herb garden bordered with box would make a pleasant feature when seen from the south windows and the Duke of Gloucester Street, though really a very simple and plain feature.

The Frenchman's map shows a fence which we think may have been the one we built between the Mall and the farm buildings, a place where a barrier would certainly be needed to prevent the animals from running over the place. The fence, as shown and as built, lines up with the northerly end of the mansion and supports the idea of the Mall. The dots on the Frenchman's map suggest trees and we chose sycamores, taking a clue from the enormous one now growing near the fence line, perhaps a child or grandchild of the old row.

The pigeon-cote and fowl house are conjectural, though to have left out structures on their sites which balance the two necessary buildings could be reckoned a sin of omission in view of the 18th century fashion for symmetry in layouts near so important a building and on a lot of so gracious a size.

Obviously the Mall could not have been wide open at its westerly end unless it looked out on extensive fields or river views. The nearness of the deep gully and of dwellings on sloping topography to the west made a terminator seem highly probable. There being no archaeological remains, we chose 2 wooden arbor which would have perished during the past century or more. We raised the arbor on a low earth terrace to give it sufficient importance for its position. That such a terrace would have disappeared during the lapse of time is highly probable, because later cultivation of the ground and the wash of its surface under rains near the edge of the deep gully would have obliterated it.

The paddock cow-yard and fowl-yard are placed adjacent to the related buildings by the implication of the uses. The fences are of 18th century designs and their pattern was determined by the need for shelter and to restrain animals.

Doubtless you have seen the many typewritten pages of archaeological records and the notes on the history of the family and the tenants. These give many valuable points. In looking at the Frenchman's map, the rear of the Wythe lot was pretty near the outskirts of the city, though the frontage saluted the Palace Green. When you write up the data for the hostesses, doubtless you will have something to say about the large size of the lot, a corner lot, and lot adjacent to the graveyard with its many moldering heaps, and the unusual orientation of the lot and building.

If, on looking over the records and plans, questions come up which you think I can answer, please let me know. By the way, I enclose a copy of a letter I have just written Mr. Chorley about the Wythe House publicity, taking my text from a recent comment in the Staff meeting notes.

With best, I am
Yours sincerely,

(signed) Arthur A. Shurcliff

AAS/AVS
Copies to
Mr. Chorley, [illegible]
Mr. Kendrew

P.S. Visitors will be interested that old Williamsburg was a nearly self-supporting agricultural town, transportation being chiefly by water and secondarily by a few roads of the worst description. Consequently many of the townsmen kept horses, cattle, fowl and swine, raised kitchen produce and depended on nearby pasturage. You know all about this but it is a good point to bring up.

JOHN BLAIR HOUSE
Block 22, Building 5

Concerning the early landscape layout, which bears little relationship to what exists on the site today, Shurcliff writes: "Derived from analogy as little or no basic data has been found." (Shurcliff letter, 24 April 1929, "Landscape Development of Williamsburg Places," to Col. Arthur Woods)

The earliest (1932) plans show only simple, symmetrical lanes of trees running from south to north at the rear of the house. Following discovery of the insurance policy showing the kitchen's location, principal garden interest was shifted to the area between the house and reconstructed outbuilding along Duke of Gloucester Street.

Correspondence between Shurcliff and Helen Bullock, of the Research Department, throws some light on the resulting development. In a 13 March 1937 letter to Shurcliff, Mrs. Bullock writes urging creation of a kitchen "herb and phskick" garden at this location. "I am to be the tenant of the Blair Kitchen and my enthusiasm for this development is influenced not only by my historical interest on the subject of kitchen gardens but by my own personal enthusiasm." Shurcliff refers to this idea for an herb garden as "first-rate" in an 18 March 1937 letter to Perry, Shaw and Hepburn. Recently in New York City, he continues, he "ran across an ancient herb garden design which could be applied to this plot of ground. Throughout most of the year, herbs are disappointing in appearance and consequently I think we should need the four clipped trees which I proposed to Mr. Perry … This would give a note of character and would reinforce the rectangularity of the plot of ground and the pattern of the paths." Mrs. Bullock, in a 4 May 1937 letter to Shurcliff, suggests drawing plants from John Randolph's Treatise on Gardening of ca. 1765. Randolph lived nearby at Tazewell Hall and describes a similar garden there.

Shurcliff's garden scheme, ultimately carried out, is dated 16 April 1937 and shows half of the garden which we see today—a quincuncial design formed by paths and having a diamond-shaped center. Ten specimen, clipped box are specified. The herbs included in the kitchen garden are: anise, aconite, thyme, pennyroyal, sheep mint, selfheal, camomille, betony, sweet basil, citronella, chives, and feverfew. In December, 1940, the garden design was repeated west of the central entrance path forming the configuration we have today.

COKE-GARRETT HOUSE
Block 27, Building 1

Shurcliff's "Measured Plan," August, 1928, shows two brick paths on the west side of the house at the rear. These walks, leading north, were incorporated into the landscape plan and still exist today. The "Proposed Plan for Grounds of Garrett House," 7 September 1928, has several garden areas including a triangular flower and box-edged garden in the southwest front corner of the property. Another elaborate box parterre—resembling the British "Union Jack" in design—is shown to the northwest at the back of the plot. Drawings by Don Parker in 1970 show that the northwest box parterre was removed and a "broad swale and meadow" re-established. The triangular box parterre and paths at the front were also demolished. The triangular box parterre and paths at the front were also demolished at this time. A "new west boxwood garden w/ enclosing fence as per Frenchman's Map" was developed.

An abbreviated explication of the garden development is contained in the following Shurcliff reports concerning the site. "Excavations revealed old brick paths, see survey. Note old rose trellis whose oblique line and peculiar construction were significant, also location of old trees and a single Box bush. Front fence was in fair condition and regarded to be moderately old. Confirmatory evidence regarding layout was received from previous tenants. Proposed design of lower Box Garden based on design of 'Hickory Hill, Virginia.'" (Letter, 24 April 1929, "regarding Landscape Development of Williamsburg Place," to Col. Arthur Woods) . "The rose garden of this place is of the so-called English Flag type. The paths leading to the Coke-Garrett House from the west garden entrance were determined in location and material by old paths which were found by excavating. The paths on the north side of the house were determined in location by the position of the old well" (Letter, 13 February 1940, "Garden Data for Guide Book," to T. Rutherfoord Goodwin) .

Research in the CWF Archives uncovered the following material concerning this site. Shurcliff, in a 19 February 1931 letter to Perry, Shaw, and Hepburn, discusses the extensive use of box. He describes a visit to the gardens with Rockefeller, who remarked that "we might the Lottie Garrett garden" if the Foundation needs them elsewhere later. A sympathy for the authenticity and integrity of the place is shown by Shurcliff's efforts to keep extant plant materials in place where possible and—when removal could not be avoided—save them for reuse at the same site. This same delicacy of approach is reflected in his letter, 7 September 1928, to Perry Shaw, and Hepburn, when he says: "The present brick paths should form the basis of the location for the path extensions and none of the old work should be injured. The new brickwork should conform as closely as possible with the old brickwork, both with regard to width, method of laying and type of brick, though exact duplication of the old brick is not necessary. Where old and new brickwork joins, use some of the brick scattered about the garden to make a gradual transition from old to new."

The following letters, from the Shurcliff Collection in the CWF Archives explain, somewhat, the evolution of the layout through the years. The observation (8 March 1945 letter to A. E. Kendrew) concerning desirability of gardens with an "overgrown" appearance has bearing on the landscape situation at Carter's Grove.

17

GARRETT HOUSE GARDEN

The accompanying bird's-eye shows a tentative plan for the arrangement of the garden at the Garrett House. The position of paths and their direction is determined by present brick paths which were discovered upon clearing the ground of mats of grass and other vegetation. The design is also controlled by certain apple trees, Crapemyrtle and other gardenesque trees. The location of the arbor and its alignment is determined by the remains of wooden arbors found on the ground. The use of rose bushes is also reminiscent of rose plantings discovered during the clearing operations. The justification for such generous use of box is based on the discovery of a large box plant, the location of which is shown on the accompanying survey.

The general arrangement of the garden is characteristic of the designs of the South, many of which are slightly off center and are lacking in right angular alignment. By accepting these departures from perfect symmetry the garden should gain in interest and individuality. The seats are placed for the accommodation of visitors and to give definition to the terminations of several of the paths. The present rose bushes are to be replanted in better soil and the present brick paths are, of course, to be carefully retained.

18

RR028701 Bird's-eye View of Proposed Garden For Garrett House Based On Old Paths, Planting, Falls, And Trellises

19

The westerly portion of the grounds is reserved for a vegetable garden in accordance with the traditions of the place during recent years. The path development is carried north as far as the falls (terraces) where steps are needed. Development beyond this point toward the row of pecan trees can be arranged subsequently in case a further embellishment of the grounds seems desirable.

The proposed rearrangement of the place is shown to scale on a photostat of a working plan.

The box edging is to be gathered from the collection of box plants already purchased by The Restoration and known as the Dickinson Box. This purchase will give plenty of material for the purpose and of a size to give an excellent immediate effect.

from: Arthur A. Shurtleff, Report to Williamsburg Holding Company, Part III, "Report of the Landscape Architect"

COPY FROM OFFICE OF ARTHUR A. SHURCLIFF

MAR 14 1932.

Lottie Garrett
Tree Box
Perry, Shaw & Hepburn
Williamsburg, Virginia.

Dear Sirs:

My records of old Virginia tree box planting show the box plants were planted in the beginning with the rows from three to ten feet apart. This has resulted in producing paths which are today often completely over-arched with the box as at Hickory Hill where the box forms a continuous arbor of foliage. Inside this archway the foliage slowly dies because of the dark shade, but the outside of the archway is green and dense. The effect is very pleasant and is typical of old gardens.

At the Lottie Garrett place I am setting the tree box (height eight to twelve feet) with the foliage five feet apart from side to side of the path. In time the foliage will grow across and meet at the top. I think this is a wiser procedure than to crowd the box together closely to make it meet at the top now and consequently involve us in the necessity of cutting off the interior side branches to give walking space and head room.

The latter method of crowding has not been advocated or discussed. I mention it only to justify the five-foot clearance which I think will not be too great to harmonize with the small scale of the paths of the rest of the garden.

Yours very truly,

(signed) Arthur A. Shurcliff.

Dictated by
Mr. Shurcliff
S—Copies to
P.S.&H.—B.
Mr. Chorley—N.Y. & W.
A.A.S.—W.

March 8, 1945

To: Files
From: A. E. Kendrew
Re: Coke-Garrett House Landscape

During Mr. Shurcliff's visit to Williamsburg this week, I told him of the conference I had with Mr. Rockefeller and Mr. Chorley in reference to the future of this garden. I pointed out that it represented a large expenditure for initial construction, as well as maintenance upkeep, and furthermore it had not thrived satisfactorily. Mr. Rockefeller felt that some of the hedges had become overgrown, and where planted close together, presented a difficulty.

I inquired regarding the precedent for the design of the garden, and whether Mr. Shurcliff felt that parts of it could be altered or eliminated without violating any historical evidence. No attempt will be made here to record the rather lengthy discussion we had on this subject. However, in brief, Mr. Shurcliff said he did not recall evidence for such an elaborate layout, although he did remember that the central path was established by archaeological findings, and that there was a small amount of box wood existing at the time work was started, which was used in developing the layout.

Mr. Shurcliff indicated that modifications in the layout could be made, particularly in reference to the formal geometric north sunken garden. He stated that at certain places in Williamsburg he felt it would be desirable to have gardens present an "overgrown" appearance. He felt that the [illegible] box recess on the west side of the garden exemplified his idea. I pointed out that this recess had been of particular concern to Mr. Rockefeller, and would like to have his recommendations for its future maintenance. He suggested that the tree box be permitted to arch over the recess from a pint where the inner sides of the box hedges have become barren. he said he did not object to the bare appearance of the box trunks within the recess, and that if this scheme was adopted, it would be necessary to add one or two specimens at the west end of the recess where the present ones have failed.

Mr. Shurcliff suggested that we continue with the present layout in the north sunken garden, making a few minor adjustments to the pavement of the walks to accelerate water run off, until next fall in order that we would have a chance to observe the appearance of this garden during the summer and see if the materials are in good shape in the fall. If it is then found by the elimination of all dwarf box, mimosas, rose bushes, etc. and use of perennial flowers to replace them. The marginal hedge, which is large in size, would be retained.

* I told Mr. Shurcliff that I would discuss his suggestions further with Mr. Rockefeller on his next visit, and asked Mr. Beebe to make the proposed adjustments in the paving. However, it was agreed that no extensive replacements would be made in this garden, until a policy for the future is settled.

* Along the south fence line of the garden two mulberry trees are to be removed. One is immediately east of the entrance gate, and the other is to the west, next to the maple at the corner of the garden.


Colonial Williamsburg, Incorporated
WILLIAMSBURG, VIRGINIA

September 10, 1935.


Mr. Arthur A. Shurcliff
11 Beacon Street
Boston, Massachusetts.

Dear Mr. Shurcliff,

In reply to your query concerning the prison keeper's vegetable garden, it might be assumed that his vegetable garden was about the same size and type as the other kitchen gardens in Williamsburg. As we have noted in previous reports, the majority of Williamsburg houses had kitchen gardens, as well as pleasure gardens.

The usual kitchen garden contained a limited number of table vegetables, and a number of seasoning herbs, and "physick" herbs such as lavender rue, rhubarb, etc. The town had markets where corn, peas, and field crops could be purchased that were fresh and reasonable in price; hence the average household was not dependent on its kitchen garden for its entire vegetable supply.

The keeper's garden would be not particularly different from others in town. Apart from the acre of more of prison lot planted to corn and pease, a small kitchen garden convenient in the keeper's house would be suitable. There are so few kitchen gardens in Williamsburg at the present time, that the absence of one at the keeper's house should not startle visitors or force them to the conclusion that the keeper treated himself and his family too severely, particularly as the town markets provided good supplies. The prevalence of kitchen gardens throughout the city in the colonial period is ample reason for placing one near the keeper's house, however.

Williamsburg did not share with England an enthusiasm for hangmen, gaolers and public executions. There is no evidence of festivity in connection with executions in Williamsburg, such as occurred in 18th century England where great mobs gathered to watch the spectacle, and hucksters circulated through the crowds selling refreshments, ballads and trinkets.

The Williamsburg gaolers were ordinary citizens, decent and hard-working, and came from the lower middle classes. There is no evidence of brutality on their part, as the laws they enforced about shackling, diet and confinement were not of their own making. In fact, the record is full of evidence of their efforts to procure blankets, drugs and extra food for their indigent prisoners. There are instances of the gaoler keeping sick prisoners in his house.

2

Peter Pelham, one of the later gaolers, who was the son of the New England artist, played the organ in Bruton Parish Church. Henry Hamilton in the narrative of his confinement in the publick gaol refers to Pelham, "as a character however beneath other people's notice which soon drew our attention…"

Williamsburg seems to have lacked distinguished gaolers or hangmen, however. The county sheriffs and the gaoler executed condemned criminals for a fee set regularly by the court. These executions took place outside the city, on the Capitol Landing Road at a place referred to in the Virginia Gazette "as the usual place near the city".

Very truly yours,

Harold R. Shurtleff, Director.
By: Helen Bullock

Copies to:
Mr. Chorley, N.Y.
P.S.& H., Boston.

ARCHIBALD BLAIR HOUSE (Grissell Hay Lodging)
Block 29, Building 1

A chronological picture of the development of this site is available from the following drawings in the Architectural Drawings Archive. Shurcliff's "Landscape Record Plan," undated but ca. 1929, shows the path system and service area as it exists today. Also included is the long box-lined walk to the mount, which connects with the Brush gardens. A drawing, "Van Garrett Box Mound," 6 September 1932, executed by F. D. Johnson for Shurcliff, shows the feature planted with a single large box on top. This scheme was evidently never implemented and manuscript drawings of the location appear to place it nearer the house in what is now the South Garden. Shurcliff's "'Mount' on Van Garrett Place," 7 November 1932, shows the feature as it exists today—developed as an overlook for surrounding gardens, with seats and trees at the top.

Research in CWF Archives uncovered the following correspondence concerning this site. Kenneth Chorley, in an 18 November 1929 memorandum to Arthur Woods, notes that the Advisory Committee of Architects has approved Shurcliff's plans for the Brush-Blair gardens. "Mr. Shurcliff," he says, "also explained that they had found direct evidence that the present Audrey box hedge walk extended into the Van Garrett garden on the location in which they are now planting the new box. He tells me that that is very characteristic of the southern Colonial gardens—they are often connected and form a neighborly development of gardens, one running into the other."

Shurcliff, in a 21 May 1930 letter to Perry, Shaw and Hepburn, observes that the several outbuildings form one of the most interesting early house complexes in Williamsburg and encourages that they be saved. Thoughtfully, he notes the "otherwise the extensive place layout, the central position in the town, and the interesting house will lose the support which the present rapidly vanishing design affords."

Arthur F. Perkins, in a 23 September 1932 letter to Shurcliff, refers to "the size of the large specimen box which was removed from the old mount at the Van Garrett place …" Correspondence, and a drawing in the Architectural Drawings Archive, infer that this feature was originally planted with such a bush at its summit.

Another Shurcliff letter of 11 March 1936 to Perry, Shaw, and Hepburn states: "The ancient layout of the Dr. Van Garrett Box Garden included a row of fruit trees outside each row of Box, throughout its whole length. This combination of fruit trees closely planted outside Box hedges we also found on the Lottie Garrett place on the long north-south central path. My measured plans of Virginia places show this arrangement of fruit trees along Box paths is very common."

Letters referred to above are from the Shurcliff Collection and Block/Bldg. files of the CWF Archives. Following is a Shurcliff letter describing the known history of the mount at this site.

Copy from Office of Arthur A. Shurcliff

February 2, 1931.


Harold R. Shurtleff, Esq.
c/o Perry, Shaw & Hepburn.
Williamsburg. Virginia.

Dear Sir:

I am much interes1ied in your discovery that a mound (perhaps a "mount") stood west of the Dr. Van Garrett house and is remembered by Mrs. Van Garrett. I have entered this fact on the survey of the Van Garrett grounds with notations describing this eminence so the record will not be lost. Below I jot down the information as it was received for me through my assistant, Mr. Perkins, this morning believing you may wish to file it for future reference.

Yours very truly,

(signed) Arthur A. Shurcliff

Dictated by
Mr. Shurcliff
J — Copies to
P. S. & H. B.,
Mr. Chorley,
N.Y. & W.,
Rutherfoord Goodwin,
Dr. Goodwin.

Note: Mrs. Van Garrett came to Williamsburg thirty-five years ago and found the mound at the spot indicated west of the house, the mound being three to four feet high but appearing to have been higher originally as it was badly eroded. She thinks it was very old and may have been a "mount". Flowers she planted on it did not thrive and she later dug into the side of it to make a small hot-bed. Later she had the mound [illegible]ed. She thinks the earth may originally have come from an old brick cistern which was said to be very old. Mr. Rutherfoord Goodwin remembers playing on this mound as a youngster.

Blair garden

Blair garden

The gardens at Dr. Archibald Blair were used as a landmark in the court records of York County. Dr. Blair built his house between 1716 and 1718. Only rows of old fruit trees and scattered clumps of dwarf box marked the garden path at the time the restoration was undertaken.

Arthur A. Shurcliff, "Look Here Upon This Picture, and on This, Landscape Architecture, XXVIII (Jan., 1938), p. 105.

BRUSH-EVERARD HOUSE
Block 29, Building 10

Shurcliff's "Existing Conditions at Audrey House," 28 November 1928, shows the old box garden as it exists today. Tradition says that it was planted in the 1830s. From this drawing, it appears that the central path was already impassible. Shurcliff's "Plan showing Proposed Paths," 3 January 1936, shows a new brick walk situated to the north of the old box gardens. An extension of these gardens through to the Archibald Blair property is also shown. This scheme connects with the mount and box-edged walk south to the Blair House and Nicholson Street.

Sketch plans by Shurcliff, dated September, 1949, exist for development of symmetrical grass panels bordering each sid of the original box gardens and development of a large vegetable garden immediately northeast of the laundry. Other sketches by Shurcliff of the same year show an elaborate parterre to the northeast, toward the Palace Power House, where 18th century lawn games could be played.

The only available correspondence in CWF Archives concerning this site discussed erection of slatted shade screens to protect the box following death of a large tree situated on the south which had formerly protected them from the strong afternoon light. Also, Mr. Rockefeller asked that dead boxwoods be replaced with small bushes which would close gaps but leave it clear that they were not original plantings.

In a "Report of the Landscape Architects' Visiting Committee," 17 October 1940, from Bremer W. Pond to Kenneth Chorley, there is the following reference to the Brush gardens. "Committee interested in antiquity of garden and approved the present program of leaving the present box undisturbed as an indication of the history of a garden which has passed through the vicissitudes of nearly two centuries and has not been restored."

The following Shurcliff letter gives some insight into the garden's development through 1940.

THE BRUSH GARDEN

Copy from the Office of Arthur A. Shurcliff

Opposite the Palace
See No. 48 on the key map.

The decrepitude of this ancient garden speaks for its age. Its wide spreading box hedges which know more than two centuries are tottering, and they all but fall and block the ancient garden paths. Indeed the chief paths of today are the trails used by garden lovers and antiquarians, and wind here and there where rectangular flower beds bloomed in the eighteenth century. Of the old outbuildings only the kitchen remains, but the more recent woodshed and fowl house lend a reminiscence. If the visitor ascends the steps of the Mount of the adjacent Van Garrett garden he can look down on the pattern of the Brush box hedges and see the vestiges of an ancient design symmetrical with the mansion which is as old as the garden.

To the right and left of the garden, spruce hedges have been planted recently to protect the old box hedges from violent winds. "Mimosa" trees have been planted to give shade. Beneath these trees and within the hedges all that remains of the ancient plan is open to view and indicates the changes which nearly two centuries have wrought. To restore this garden has seemed inappropriate, since it stands as an impressive relic of the ancient Williamsburg and would be lost if an attempt were made to bring it back to its early perfection.

from: Shurcliff letter, 13 Feb., 1940, "Garden Data for Guide Book," to T. Rutherfoord Goodwin (Typescript pamphlet in Clyde's office)

ELKANAH DEANE HOUSE
Block 30, Building 1-A

Shurcliff's landscape plan of October, 1937 shows a triple series of parterres—three quincuncial plans with oval, round, and rectangular center, located in what today is the open field immediately north of the house. "landscape Plan for Deane Lot," 30 November 1937, shows the same elaborate series of gardens planted with box and flowers. The general configuration is as today, located behind the house along Prince George Street. Shurcliff's "Plan 'A'," 2 March 1938, shows the same triple parterre gardens located in an area diagonally northwest of the house. His "Plan 'B,'" of the same date, shows a symmetrically arranged parterre of unique design incorporates a rotated Maltese Cross set within a square.

Research in the CWF Archives uncovered the following information. Shurcliff, in a letter of December 1937 to Kenneth Chorley, writes concerning the plan of a garden located immediately north of the house along Palace Street. This scheme, he says, takes into consideration the three outbuildings on the north boundary line indicated on the "Frenchman's Map." The layout in accord with this location would attract "patronage from the elite passing along the Palace Green…the design of this garden is taken direct from Sauthier's map of Edenton." [Design referred to is the one ultimately adopted, so that the source of the present garden is Sauthier]

Shurcliff makes plain that he prefers this north garden location in which the old well is incorporated believably into the scheme but, also, offers a layout showing the parterre in the location behind the house along Prince George Street as it is today. Points in support of the latter location were that the garden on axis with the house would serve as a visual and perambulatory lead-in to the smithy, and that servants could have better used the well if it were situated in the middle of an open lawn.

A. E. Kendrew, in a 9 December 1937 letter to Perry, Shaw, and Hepburn, says: "There is one further point which I believe you might like to consider and that is a tendency in all the landscape work here in Williamsburg to overdo planting particularly along the streets. It seems to me that at this property we have a wonderful opportunity by locating the formal garden directly in back of the house and to develop a lawn fronting on Palace Green and extending all the way back to the outbuildings. If such an open space were developed, it seems to me that the rather extensive vista back to the outbuildings and flanked on the North side by them would be very attractive. Furthermore, there is little in the records to indicate that formal gardens existed at this property, but the records do state through advertisements of this property that there was 'pasture' available.

A Shurcliff letter, 24 December 1937, to Chorley says that Perry and Shaw "have recently found some documents which indicate that the garden was behind the house…that location may have a bearing on the development of the Wythe lot… [and] effect of the combined gardens upon the attractiveness of Prince George Street." The document referred to is a 4 November 1775 Virginia Gazette advertisement for the sale of the Elkanah Deane lot which has a "good garden a the back of the dwelling house."

Shurcliff, in a letter of 7 January 1938 to Chorley, suggests the development of an "orchard north of the house so the east end of the place would seem attractive when viewed from the Palace Green. I have also used specimen clipped evergreens [these yaupon hollies were removed by chain-saw about two years ago] in the garden itself so these will rise up sufficiently high to be seen from the Palace Green and will indicate the existence of a garden which visitors would then wish to view close at hand."

Referring to his drawings: "Plan 'A'" and "Plan 'B'," Shurcliff writes that the Deane House merits a less cramped garden site and on one hidden to a less degree from Palace Green than the one proposed directly behind the house. Thus, a relatively small garden nucleus framed by an orchard and grass—all located to the northwest—would in his mind be the best location. (Shurcliff letter, 2 March 1938, to Kenneth Chorley).

All letters referred to above are from the CWF Archives' Shurcliff Collection or Block/Bldg. files.

ROBER CARTER HOUSE
Block 30, Building 13

Shurcliff's "Existing Conditions at Saunders House," 17 December 1928, shows a relatively well-defined central, rear dooryard area enclosed by fences and tree rows. There is a falling terrace at the western edge and numerous notations concerning brick foundations, walls, and steps. His "I-2," 15 September 1931, contains a scheme developed from the earlier layout. A box-edged, rear dooryard area with three semicircular box parterres attached. Continuing on the established axis from the rear door is a sweeping western vista across three levels of falling terraces. Shurcliff's "Proposed Layout," 16 July 1934, adds development of a formal, symmetrically arranged and intricately articulated flower garden with central grass panel and garden seat just west of the Brick Quarters. Later, simplified and revised versions of the layout show that these early, elaborate schemes were never carried out. Landscape development as it is today took place in 1951 and was drawn up by Alden Hopkins in consultation with Shurcliff.

Research in the CWF Archives uncovered the following correspondence concerning this site. A 1931 archaeological report by Herbert S. Ragland says that the record is so complex as to be undecipherable—due to the many periods represented—and will require much deliberation in determining which ear to restore.

Because it was once the town house of Robert Carter of "Nomini Hall," Shurcliff, in a 31 August 1931 letter to Perry, Shaw, and Hepburn, speaks of expanding the "Master's grounds of the terrace," which would be noble in scale and form a logical, grand, and generous gesture reflective of the genteel life-style such a figure would probably have had.

Further insight to the method of development followed here is contained in a typewritten note, evidently by Shurcliff and bearing the pencilled date 3 March 1933. Titled "Saunders-Dinwiddie," it says: "This mansion … lends itself to the grand manner in the development of grounds. Plans for the future restoration of these grounds show the long axis leading up to the center of the west front and indicate the symmetry of gardens and path patterns, together with the outbuildings, in this portion of the grounds. The use of 'falls' (terraces) was made possible here by the rapidly falling ground. The several levels were connected with ramps in the Virginia custom. Some of the largest trees on this place are about a century old."

Another perspective on the landscape development is provided by a letter, 19 March 1936, from Helen Bullock to Shurcliff. She says: "The stream was used by the other owners of Palace Green property as water for a pasture. As the lots extended to Nassau Street on the west, the extreme western portion of the lot may have been used as a pasture without interfering with the garden development on the eastern side of the run."

Letters referred to above are from the CWF Archives, Shurcliff Collection, Box 26, "Saunder-Dinwiddie." Following is a Shurcliff letter further explicating the subject.There was a formal garden at one time, now removed.

August 10th, 1936

Carter-Saunders Landscape Layout.
B. W. Norton, Esq.
Williamsburg Restoration, Inc.,
Williamsburg, Virginia

Dear Mr. Norton:

In reply to your question of the 7th, I suppose the lecturer will be interested to know the following:—

The importance of the location of this place on the Palace Green next door to the Palace; the distinguished family who lived here when the Palace was in its prime and the fact that this family enjoyed making a show of their house or goods and their place; the existence of an important unusually long and high terrace not greatly unlike the terraces (falls) of the Governor's Gardens; the existence of an important unusually long and high terrace not greatly unlike the terraces (falls) of the Governor's Gardens' the existence of a very large lower terrace being by all odds the largest terrace in Williamsburg, unless we include the ballroom terrace as an earth work of that kind; the use of two unusually large ramps connecting the terraces and the meadow, these taking the place of steps and corresponding to the Virginia custom; the probable existence of a pond in the meadow below the lower terrace, as indicated by the alluvial plain there and the apparent remains of an old dam.

All the above items indicate, together with the ancient records that the grounds were laid out in a stately manner as at present with the series of hedges, marginal plantings, the great trees, the brick outbuildings, and a flower garden, the latter on the axis of the outbuilding. The garden itself lies on a portion of the lower large terrace and is enclosed by hedges which are placed parallel and at right angles to the axes of the place. The steps leading from the garden to the upper terrace are built of wood as we found no indications of masonry steps when the excavations were made in and about the garden. The pattern of the garden is typical of the designs which were used in Virginia and in Williamsburg in colonial times. The garden seats are also typical of that era. All the plants in the garden and the trees near it are of kinds which were used in Williamsburg when the gardens of the city were in their prime.

Doubtless the lecturer will be interested to know that the old pond is soon to be restored. Additional outbuildings which formed a part of the old design will be added and the elaborate front fence and gate revealed by the excavations.

I have no doubt the Research Department would like to look over the above and may have important additions to make.

It might be a good idea to stress the importance which the Restoration has placed upon documentary research and upon excavations.

I have dwelt a good deal of length on the place 2 as a whole so the lecturer will not receive the impression that a garden in Williamsburg can be picked out as a single unit and discussed separately from the design of the place, the house, the streets, and the whole City plan.

If you need further details, please let me know.

Yours very truly,

(signed) Arthur A. Shurcliff

Dictated by
Mr. Shurcliff
J — Copies to
Mr. Chorley, N.Y. & W.
P.S.&H., B.

October 17, 1983

To: Nicholas A. Pappas
From: George H. Yetter
Subject: Shurcliff Garden Designs for the Historic Area

In formulation of design, Shurcliff writes that Perry, Shaw, and Hepburn, themselves, played a definite role. Following study of archaeology, interviews with early residents, documentary and cartographic research, combing through legal documents, insurance policies, and early correspondence, together with contemporary documentary resources from the areas of the Colonies, a garden scheme was created. This was then studied by the architects, Kenneth Chorley and, often, John D. Rockefeller, Jr.

Shurcliff states that the recreated gardens should "recall the period of the ancient dwellings and the old city itself" (Shurcliff, Report to Williamsburg Holding Corp., Part III (1928), p. 7). He further notes that local landscape traditions are different from those of other regions, as are the plants to be used. Frequent reference is made to his thorough, careful study of southern gardens, and Virginia places in particular. This study, he says, in combination with verifiable original designs, will govern the pattern of the new work.

An explanation to the occasionally heard criticism that his gardens have an over extensive use of boxwood bushes is offered by Shurcliff, himself. "In replanting the Williamsburg place," he writes, "much use should be made of box even to the extent of allowing it to dominate the parterres and bed traceries of which it once formed only a part. Such domination is wholly justifiable as it would recall at once the old Southern places as they exist today in gardens where the box has overshadowed the flowers to which it was once a marginal frame" (Report, op. cit., pp. 7-8).

Shurcliff states that records clearly show some of the Williamsburg houses were laid out with elaborate pleasure gardens. The remains—box borders, trellises, paths, hedges, fences, and terraces—were still extant in the 1930s. He observes that "the ancient gardens were more elaborate and extensive then their remains indicate" (Report, p. 9). With the abolition of slave labor and the economic decline following the War between the States, the means for maintenance of such purely ornamental features were lost. Effort was turned to the growing of food, crops, and resources capable of household and industrial use.

A few guidelines for garden development were formulated. Pleasure gardens should be limited to those locations where existence was historically accurate. Also, it was noted that varieties and types of plants used should correspond with those originally in place. From various sources, Shurcliff compiled a list of authentic plant material. With the same attention to detail, he noted that gravel, dirt, flagstone, slate, and brick sidewalks should be maintained throughout the Historic Area. However, he advised, "to use any one of these materials uniformly or exclusively throughout the whole area would be historically inaccurate. Variety of width, material and pattern is desirable to express the vagaries of the old construction work and the lack of uniformity with which it was installed by the many administrations. The charm … depends on the slight departures from true line and perfect gradient" (Report, p. 33) He goes on to suggest that large sized flagstones would be most suitable for the store district. Stone and gravel would be appropriate to locations of less use and where necessity of cleaning was not as great. Shurcliff felt that brick, being characteristic of the "Georgian" period, was generally acceptable in most locations.

Stone curbs were installed on Duke of Gloucester Street because of the heavy traffic and parking which were allowed in the period. Shurcliff wished to avoid this necessity and specifically noted that Francis Street, because of expected light travel and its generous width, would not require them.

Shurcliff repeatedly emphasizes the symmetrical formality of Williamsburg's early gardens. They were created before the popularity of the naturalistic landscape school. Their practicality, economy, and scale, he felt, resulted in a unique and particular charm. He defines "The Williamsburg manner" in landscaping thus: "The designs are more concentrated. I mean the parallelism of outbuildings, their great number and nearness together, the very general use of fences or walls connecting outbuildings or embracing the approaches, placing of trees in row, use of straight roads and walks, box planting on axial paths, and preference of high marginal board fences and occasional brick walls of characteristic type are more pronounced" (Shurcliff letter, 24 April 1929, "Regarding Landscape Development of Williamsburg Places," to Col. Arthur Woods).

Excerpts from a 1933 Shurcliff letter to B. W. Norton are included here (See Attachment 1). The sections concerning "The Grand Manner" and "Authenticity" explain many of the details and procedures involved in development of the various garden layouts.

The individual landscape studies which follow are organized by block and building order and contain information taken from plans in the Architectural Drawings Archive, together with all pertinent correspondence available from the CWF Archives. All of the major gardens are included except for the Palace and Capitol complexes. Gardens not mentioned have no connection with Shurcliff and were developed after his active work and period of consultancy.

It appears that a majority of the sites have changed—in varying degrees—through the years from Shurcliff's original conception. It would seem, also, that his most characteristic work stems from the earliest period of landscape development in the Historic Area, and not from the later collaborative efforts in consultation with Alden Hopkins and others. A further research aid—not specifically used in this study—exists in the Shurcliff Collection of bird's-eye views of many of these sites as originally conceived.

Among Shurcliff's garden examples which have changed the least from their original conception, the following provide an especially good measure of his skill. The Red Lion garden is particularly admirable because of its retention of the original sunken garden as focal point of the composition. The Custis-Maupin garden is an excellent example of what might be termed "Colonial Revival" garden design. Shurcliff attributes the pattern to Sauthier's 18th-century maps of North Carolina towns, but questions the actual existence of such a feature on this site. Another very pleasing possible Colonial Revival layout is the Orlando Jones garden about which there is very little documentation. The Prentis garden is an example of original sources used in conjunction with documentation of the period—in this case, Joseph Prentis' "Garden Book" and "Monthly Kalender" with Sauthier's map of Edenton. The Ludwell-Paradise, Coke-Garrett, and Wythe gardens have not been included in this list of examples due to the rather drastic changes made to them in recent years.

#4
Copy from Office of Arthur A. Shurcliff

March 17, 1933.


B. W. Norton, Esq.,

Dr. Coleman, Saunder-Dinwiddie, Wythe. Then would follow the many other places which are alike in size, ending with the smallest,—Tillidge and Emily Christian.

THE GRAND MANNER

The beauty which is sought upon a very large and lavish scale by Americans today in the layouts or their places and gardens was sought by Americans of the Colonial period in Virginia but they attained it by following a single style, though with many variations of that style. Virginians were not torn as we are between the styles of Italy, England, France, Spain, Japan and the modernistic. Virginians followed the styles which were prevailing in England, and though England was changing, the changes of style were very slow.

In general, the beauty which the Virginians sought and attained in the Colonial heydey was, as we say, Georgian. This was the style of the elaborate Shirley, Westover, Carter's Grove, Brandon, Stratford, and of Mount Vernon. Though the designer and owner of Mount Vernon overthrew the civil authority of the Georges, yet the fashionable style of place design of the Georgians continued to hold sway with him and with all other liberated Colonials.

In the South, the grand manner of laying out grounds and garden was used without wasteful size or wasteful cost. In the skillful hands of Virginians public buildings, mansions, and grounds of moderate or even small size were large enough to achieve the effect, but the great buildings or groups of buildings were handled with equal skill. Modest architectural embellishment was considered sufficient for the good purpose. Elsewhere in America we have seen this "manner" laboriously attempted with places and with buildings of vast size and fabulous cost, but the attempts have often resulted in an appearance of cold ostentation and clumsiness, because the essentials of this manner were not understood. There is no ostentation in the grand manner of the South, but the air of repose, dignity, ease, is attained. There is on the other hand no skimping of space or niggardly cramping of lines. The places appear generous even though the actual size be small. There is a sense of Hospitality like that of the climate and the temper of Virginians.

Among the essentials of the grand manner the Virginians sought:— a site on shapely topography, buildings of simple mass and symmetrical front sometimes having symmetrical wings; a long straight approach entering on the buildings; a symmetrical arrangement of outbuildings, fences, walls, gates; a symmetrical arrangement of the lawns, paths, hedges, "fall", trees, mounts, orchard rows, gardens, and other landscape features which lay opposite the mansion on the living side. Size and cost were unimportant, but there must be no clumsiness, no disarray, no confusion, no halt of deliberate intention, no copying of natural irregularity in any of these essential features.

from: Shurcliff letter, 17 march 1933, "Description of Williamsburg Places," to B. W. Norton (CWF Archives, "Landscape General") #5 [Page #5 is missing from both the electronic and bound versions of the text]

#6 plantations like Mount Vernon, Brandon and Shirley, but it was condensed in its scope of course to the size of the town lots. At Lottie Garrett the many radical changes which were made in the house in ancient times have resulted in picturesque grounds, but each panel of the grounds has an axis and a symmetry which is of Virginia origin. The same is true of the interesting grounds at the rear of Bassett Hall and at Rogers.

In Williamsburg the most distinguished sites, other than the magnificent ones of the Capitol, College, and Palace, were considered to be on the Duke of Gloucester Street, or on the three Greens which flanked this street, — the Palace Green, the Court House Green, and the less important Market Square. On these sites, close to the street lines, were placed Bruton Parish Church and the homes of Blair, Cole, Wythe, Saunders-Dinwiddie, Tucker, Dr. Coleman, Bull, Elizabeth Coleman, Paradise, Barlow, Vest, and also the many famous taverns like the Raleigh, Market Square, Red Lion, and the shops.

In following the traditions of the great places, the inhabitants of Williamsburg were not attempting a slavish adherence to a "Colonial Style" or a "Georgian Period". They followed the usual lead of the times. No other way of arranging grounds was known from Carolina to Maryland. The needs of a Southern climate and the fashions and customs of place design in England led to the common usages and tastes in Virginia, whether the ground space was large or small.

AUTHENTICITY

The facts and the Virginia usages which determined the layouts of the places of Williamsburg have been studied at very great length by the Restoration. The excavations made of Williamsburg places. the ancient maps of the town, the plans and letters which have been discovered, and the recollections and traditions of Williamsburg people have yielded a vast amount of matter of fact information. This data has been followed wherever restorations of the grounds have been undertaken. This information has been supplemented when it has been fragmentary by measurements made by the Restoration of upwards of a hundred Southern places in Virginia and nearby States. A. study has been made of plans drawn before the Revolution of other cities and towns of the Colonies. A study of English places of the same period has been made also through the usual historical channels and through special studies made on the ground.

Much valuable information regarding Williamsburg places and the Southern manner has been received through National Government and State departments, from historical societies and garden clubs, the Virginia Society for the Preservation of Antiquities, the Mount Vernon Association, William and Mary College (this last to be continued later).

A careful search has been made to find plant lists in old family letters, in books printed in America in colonial times, in plantsmen's catalogues of that period, in lists at Washington, in the Arnold Arboretum, and from researches in libraries of the South (this list to be continued late). No trees, shrubbery, #7 garden flowers, or vines are to be planted permanently unless they are known to have been used in the South during Colonial times.

Committees of many garden clubs and societies interested in Colonial times have conferred with the Restoration to give information and to comment on the work. Groups of Architects, Landscape Architects, and the State Art Commission have frequently viewed the plans and the work.

GROUNDS OF THE PARADISE HOUSE

When the restoration of the grounds around the Paradise House was undertaken no other ancient building stood on the lot, and there were no old paths visible. Excavations soon revealed the brick foundations of the ancient kitchen, also the brick-lined well, and the diagonal brick path which led to the smoke house. The positions of the lateral fences and the stable were determined from old deeds. The easterly entrance path was built as an essential to the cellar doors. The two lateral garden paths at the north were derived from similar paths shown on Sauthier's measured plans, made before the Revolution, of Southern places.

The pattern of the box garden was taken from old box gardens at Port Royal, Virginia. The holly trees, holly hedges, hibiscus, redbud, hackberry, crapemyrtle, locust and other trees, are kinds used before the Revolution. The screens of slats placed over the recently planted box to protect it from the sun will be removed next season. Flowers of kinds used in Colonial times will be planted then in the garden. The fences, gate hinges, and latches are copied from old examples.

GROUNDS OF MAUPIN

This place, at the junction of the Duke of Gloucester and King Street, can be viewed conveniently from the nearby sidewalks. The unsymmetrical plan of the house is reflected in the position of the outbuildings which, however, determine the fence lines and the convenient paths. The fences are duplicates of old kinds and the gates have old latches and hinges. The box garden is laid out in accordance with Virginia patterns and the flowers are of kinds used in Virginia in Colonial times. The arrangement of the fruit trees and vegetable garden a the rear follow Virginia types. A new brick wall of old type has been built around the ancient graveyard near the southwest corner of the lot where there are some ancient "falls" or terraces.

GROUNDS OF LOTTIE GARRETT PLACE

The many changes made during early times to enlarge the Lottie Garrett house have resulted in an unusual group of garden, orchards, lawns, and "falls" which relate more or less axially to the house doors and to the paths which surround the house. The curious departure from perfect parallelism in these #8 paths is authentic, being derived from ancient paths discovered during the excavations of the grounds. A sufficient amount of box was also found to determine the old box pattern of the garden immediately west of the house, including the curious oblique portion at the southwest. The outbuildings stand on ancient sites and two of these buildings. the privy and the well house, are old. The pattern of the rose garden is derived from ancient Virginia designs and was surrounded with cedar trees to protect the garden from the severe north and easterly wind. The ancient rows of fruit trees have been reestablished in the new plantings of apple trees. The brick walls which surround the small ancient graveyard are duplicates of a kind sometimes used in gardens in the south.

The terrace north of the house is ancient, but the planting upon it has been installed recently where modern structures were removed to reveal the old ground. The northeasterly portion of the lot remains open, as in Colonial times, for use as a hay­field or for raising garden produce. The dooryard contains many interesting trees, including a sizable Mimosa, the curious stump of an old Paper Mulberry and a Smoketree. The large crapemyrtle west of the house was growing in the garden when the restoration was undertaken.

TRAVIS HOUSE GROUNDS

This garden follows a rectangular type frequently used in the South, but the lateral bricked panels are adapted to the needs of the Inn and are arranged to accommodate tea tables. The tea house is a copy of an ancient design. The box was brought from Georgia. The fences are of old types. The rows of shade trees in the garden are flowering Dogwood. The flight of steps southeast of the house leads to the low ground and affords communication for the accommodation of visitors across the Market Square Green toward Francis Street, the Library and the New Court House. The narrow driveway at the west accommodates vehicles wishing to park in the small space reserved for such use at the rear of the Tavern.

Yours very truly,

(Signed) Arthur A. Shurcliff

Dictated by
Mr. Shurcliff
W — Copies to
Mr. Chorley, N.Y.
P.S. & H. — P & W.