Milliners of Williamsburg in the Eighteenth Century

Mary A. Stephenson

September, 1951

Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Library Research Report Series - 0115
Colonial Williamsburg Foundation Library

Williamsburg, Virginia

1990

MILLINERS OF WILLIAMSBURG
IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

Report by:
Mary A. Stephenson

September, 1951

MILLINERS OF WILLIAMSBURG IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

I. INTRODUCTION — Origin and development as a trade
II. MILLINERS AND MILLINERY IN WILLIAMSBURG
1. Frances Webb — 1745-1757
2. Catherine Rathell — 1771-1775 (in Fredericksburg 1766-1771}
3. Sarah Pitt — 1767-1772
4. Jane and Margaret Hunter — 1766-1780 (Jane Hunter operated as Jane Charlton 1771-1774)
5. M. Brodie — 1771-1775 (mantua maker}
6. Mary Dickinson — 1770-1776
7. Mary Davenport — 1772
III. VARIETIES OF HATS SOLD IN WILLIAMSBURG
IV. GENTLEMEN'S ATTIRE ADVERTISED UNDER "MILLINERY"
V. TYPES OF GAUSE, RIBBONS, AND BUTTONS USED IN MILLINERY
VI. DRESS MATERIALS USED BY WILLIAMSBURG MILLINERS
VII. OTHER MILLINERY ADVERTISEMENTS (VIRGINIA, MARYLAND, AND SOUTH CAROLINA)
VIII. LIST OF SIGNS
1. Milliners and Haberdashers
2. Hat-Makers
3. Mercers
IX. PRICES OF LADIES' DRESSES
X. ILLUSTRATIONS

MILLINERS OF WILLIAMSBURG IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

I. INTRODUCTION

The beginnings of the millinery trade seem to be closely related to haberdashery. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the haberdasher "Formerly (was) a dealer in a variety of articles now dealt with by other trades, including caps, and probably hats. In the course of the 16th c. the trade seems to have been split into two, those of a. A dealer in, or maker of, hats and caps, a hatter; b. A dealer in-small articles appertaining to dress, as thread, tape, ribbons, etc. (quotation) 1617 Minsheu Ductor, An Habberdasher of small wares … In London also called a Millenier, a Lat. mille i. a thousand, as one having a thousand small wares to sell.".

Chambers in Cyclopaedia (1779) gives this definition of haberdasher: "In Commerce, a seller of hats, and other small wares. The master and wardens of the COMPANY of haberdashers in London, calling to their assistance one of the company of cappers, and another of the hat-makers, and mayors, &c. of towns, may search the wares of all hatters who work hats with foreign wool, and who have not been apprentices to the trade, or who dye them with any thing but copperas and galls, or woad, and madder; in which cases they are liable to penalties by stat. 8 Eliz. cap. 7. and 5 Geo. II. cap. 22."

The Oxford English Dictionary defines milliner thus: "a. A vendor of fancy wares and articles of apparel, esp. of such as were originally of Milan manufacture, e.g. 'Milan bonnets,' ribbons, gloves, cutlery. b. In modern use, a person (usually a woman) who makes up articles of female apparel, esp. bonnets and other headgear. (Quotation) 1530 in Privy Purse Exp. Hen. VIII Paied to the Mylloner for certeyne cappes trymmed…with botons of golde." and "1797 Directory Sheffield: Calton, Godfrey, haberdasher, and millner."

Bailey's English Dictionary (1730) defines milliner as: "a Seller of Gloves, Ribbands, and many such things."

Thomas Sheridan's Dictionary (1797) gives: "Milliner. One who sells ribbons and dresses for women."

From the many literary references notes under haberdashery or millinery, one sees that the two were closely connected in the 17th and 18th centuries, and that at no time were milliners confined to the trimming and selling of hats exclusively. This connotation is of modern use. The 18th century milliner was a dealer in small articles, ribbons, gloves, trimmings, jewelry, as well as hats.

According to the customs reports from London, millinery ware exported to the colonies had reached a substantial amount as early as 1698. From 1698 through 1699 the Public Record Office, London Customs, reported that "millinery goods exported amounted to £16,663:19:11." (Photostat, Research Department: Great Britain Custom House-Port Books from Bristol, exportations of goods 1697-1702). In 1700, "Millinary Ware &c" was sent out to Virginia and Maryland valued at "£193:4:1." (Ibid.) In 1703, "Millinary &c." was ordered at "£92:2:0." (Ibid.)

Lucy Randolph, a milliner of London at the Three Angels, undertook to define for the public the term "millinery" for her Virginia friends:

LUCY RANDOLPH,
of London, at the Three Angels, No. 9, Long Walk, Clyosters, UNDERSTANDING that her friends in Virginia being unacquainted with the business transacted by her, takes this method to inform them that she makes and sells all sorts of Millinery, viz. Brussels, Mecklin, and minionet laces; blonds and black lace, gauze and catguts; plain and worked muslins and long lawns; Black and white crape, and black love handkerchiefs; fine threads and tapes, Dutch and French; Manchester tapes and threads, cotton, thread and tapes; silk purses, gloves, mits and ferrets; stay, silk, lace, cotton, thread, and ferret, laces; bobbins, pins, and needles; head and breast flowers, Italian and French; skeleton and bunch wire; muffs and tippets, feather and fur; leather gloves, mits, and silk pocket books, Gentlemens bags and roses; childrens shoes, stockings, bone and packthread stays; boys silk and satin caps ostrich and cock feathers; ladies and boys satin and beaver hats with do. hair rolls, tates, curls, and silk rolls, ribands, riband and flower stomachers and knots, shenneals, garlands, and gown trimmings; quilted and puckered girls caps, white and black; coloured and black fans, velvet and silk collars, beaded or plain; Gentlemens stocks and stock tape; childbed linen, baskets cushions, and lines; wax beads, French and English, India and wax pearl; horn and tortoiseshell combs, plain or set; set neck-laces and earrings, fancy paste pins, &c. flannels and dimities of all sorts, dimity and calico bed gowns; modes, satins, persian, sarsenets of all widths figured and plain; mantuas 3-4 and half ell, and all sorts of silks in pieces; ruffels, calimancoes, durants, and taminies, coarse and fine; scarlet cloths and duffels, in cardinals or by the yard; satin and silk cardinals, cloaks, hats, and bonnets; satin, silk, and stuff quilts, of all prices; with all kinds of childrens ready made clothes, wholesale and retail, on the lowest terms.(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., June 14, 1770)

Milliners in Williamsburg ordered their goods from such merchants as Lucy Randolph (quoted above); or, from Robert Cary and Company; John Norton & Sons; John Didsbury, and other leading export merchants of England. These Virginia milliners were very style-conscious and eager for the devotees of fashion to be their customers. Consequently, they advertised That the millinery goods were "very genteel," "a neat assortment," "just imported," and "of the latest fashion" — which was, no doubt, true as goods were received from London several times a year. In some cases, the milliner insisted that an "ocular Demonstration" would pay its rewards to the customer.2

No advertisement of a Virginia milliner has been discovered which would indicate that the milliner or mantua-maker was a tailor of men's apparel other than hats and ruffs.1 It seems that some were able to make men's head 3 apparel, but the usual custom was to sell hats and caps which had been imported. Tailors kept shop entirely apart from other business places. (The Virginia Gazette and Maryland Gazette were checked over a twenty-year period for this.)

A glance at the advertisements to follow will convince one that women milliners maintained shops or stores in connection with the millinery business, selling wares of all descriptions. At the same time they frequently employed trained milliners or mantua-makers from abroad to keep the business alive and up-to-date with the newest and most fashionable modes of the day.

As to the type of shop and the equipment used by the milliner, the newspaper notices are strangely silent. Only in one instance in the Virginia Gazette do we get any idea of the shop. M. Brodie (a Mantua-maker) in advertising the stock in trade of Mrs. Catherine Rathell, milliner of Williamsburg, adds: "At the same Time will be sold a large Bow WINDOW, with Bars, and Shutters, some SHOW GLASSES, and GLASS CASES." (Dixon and Hunter, eds., October 14, 1775.)

II. MILLINERS AND MILLINERY IN WILLIAMSBURG

According to the Virginia Gazette, from 1745-1775 there was no lack of milliners serving the little city of Williamsburg. The earliest milliner on record was Frances Webb, who was in business from 1754-1757. She was followed by Mrs. Catherine Rathell from 1771-1775 (previously in Fredericksburg); Sarah Packe Pitt from 1767-1772: Jane Hunter from 1766-1769; Margaret Hunter from 1767-1780; Mary Dickinson from 1770-1773; Mary Davenport from 1772—. Jane Hunter operated from 1771-1774 as Jane Charlton.

Mrs. Webb's shop was on Palace Street. Mrs. Rathell was located in a shop "where Mr. Ayscough lately lived, opposite to the South side of the Capitol" in 1771. In 1772 Mrs. Rathell had moved her establishment to a "store opposite the Raleigh in Williamsburg.: Jane and Margaret Hunter occupied a building on lot 52, Duke of Gloucester Street. Mary Dickinson had a stand "at Mr. William Holt's store," also was "next door to Mr. James GEDDY'S Shop, near the Church." In 1772 she was at "the Store above the Coffeehouse, near the Capitol." Mary Davenport was "near the Capitol, Williamsburg." M. Brodie (mantua-maker) operated from Mrs. Rathell's store until she could find a suitable location.

A detailed report of these milliners and their type of millinery follows:

FRANCES WEBB — MILLINER

Frances Webb, wife of John Pearson Webb, was the first milliner to appear in the records for Williamsburg. Only three advertisements of hers offering millinery for sale appear in the Virginia Gazette prior to 1757:

Just imported in the Ship RESTORATION, Capt. John WILCOX, from LONDON, A Quantity of Lace, Cambricks, Holland Calicoes, Chintz's, printed Linnens, Kenting, Velvet Caps and Hoods, Women's Gloves, Silk Shoes, Glass Rings, and other Milinary Goods, which are to be sold by the Subscriber, at her house in Palace Street, Williamsburg…
Frances WebbParks, ed., June 20, 1745)

4
Just Imported,
A Choice Parcel of Lace, Cambricks, Ribbons, Gause hand-kerchiefs, Velvet Hoods, lac'd and plain, Mantelets and Cloaks, Chints, printed Linens, Callicose, Silk Stockings, Fans, and Fan-mounts, Children's quilted Caps, and other Millinary Goods. Also, a curious Collection of Toys, and are to be Sold by the Subscriber, in Palace-Street, Williamsburg.
Frances Webb (Parks, ed., March 27, 1746)
To be SOLD, at very reasonable Rates, by the Subscriber, in Williamsburg,
A Choice Assortment of Silks… Silk laced Bonnets, Hair Hats… and all Sorts of Milinary Goods… a great Variety of Fans and Mounts…
Frances and John Pearson Webb.(Hunter, ed., July 10, 1752)

In April 1757 Frances Webb gave notice that she had discontinued the millinery business:

THE Subscriber having left off the Millinery Business, and removed into the country, desires all Persons indebted to her to pay their respective Ballances to John Pearson Webb, and those who have any Demands against her are desired to apply to the said Webb for Payment, in Williamsburg. Fans will be mounted as usual; and Orders left with the said John Webb, will be forwarded to
Frances Webb(Hunter, ed., April 22, 1757)

CATHERINE RATHELL — Milliner

In August 1765 John Norton Jordon of London in writing to Robert Carter of Nomini Hall, Virginia, said:

"Mrs. Rathell because of misfortune is coming to Williamsburg to set up Milliner's Shop."(Ms. letters of Robert Carter of Nomini Hall — 4 boxes — Virginia Historical Society)

In April 1766 Mrs. Rathell had arrived in Virginia and was then in Fredericksburg, where she advertised as a "Milliner Lately Arrived From London":

CATHERINE RATHELL,
Milliner,
LATELY ARRIVED FROM LONDON, at present in Fredericksburg, Virginia, has a large assortment of European and other GOODS, suitable for Ladies and Gentlemen, which she sells very cheap.

Among other things she has the best flowered and plain satins, flowered and plain modes, sarcenets, and Persians 5 flowered, striped and plain English gauze, from 5a.9d. to 12s. a yard, a great variety of blond, minionet, thread, and black lace, joining blonds for Ladies caps and handkerchiefs; black and white gauze handkerchiefs, wedding and other fans from 4s.6d. to 30s. ready made stomachers and knots, a great variety of ribands, French beads and earrings, Ladies caps from 2s.6d. to 25s., fly caps and lappets, egrets of all sorts, silk and leather gloves and mits, Summer hats and cloaks, cardinals, French tippets, black gauze and catgut, love riband for mournings, silk, thread, and cotton stockings, for Ladies and Gentlemen, Gentlemens laced ruffles from 30s. to 10£ bags for wigs and solitaires, Irish Linens and tapes in variety, garnet and Bristol stone and pearl sleeve buttons set in silver, garnet and gold brooches, a variety of silver shoe buckles, in the newest fashion for Ladies and Gentlemen, with knee buckles for the latter, silver thimbles with steel bottoms pencils in silver cases, enammelled nutmeg graters, best needles sorted in due proportion from the finest cambrick to the largest darning needles, in such variety as never before imported; with some articles of STATIONARY, viz. Blank legers, memorandum and pocket books in great variety, and sundry articles too tedious to mention.

She also makes all sorts of MILLINERY, in the best and newest taste, for the following prices: Full dress suits at 11s.6d. laced do. at 9s.6d. plain do. at 7s.6d. also washes and makes up all sorts of laces and gauzes, so as to be little inferiour to new.

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds. April 18, 1766)

In advertising as "Catherine Rathell Milliner of Fredericksburg" in the Virginia Gazette (Rind, ed.) of February 19, 1767, Mrs. Rathell closes by saying:

…The present scarcity of Cash induces her to attend a few days at Williamsburg, during the sitting of next Assembly, from whence it will be more convenient for many Ladies and Gentlemen to furnish themselves than from town. The several articles are so well chosen and afford such a Variety she ventures to recommend it to such Ladies and Gentlemen as want such for themselves or Friends, to defer supplying themselves till her Arrival when she flatters herself they will be no less pleased, than
Their humble Servant
CATHERINE RATHELL

Following the above notice, Mrs. Rathell carried long advertisements from Fredericksburg in the Virginia Gazette for April 13 and July 15, 1767. Among the items listed are "fashionable assortment of caps, ribbons, egrets, fillets, Gentlemen, youths and boys ditto, blue, green and white fine riding ditto for Ladies, feathers for ditto, all sorts of gold bands, buttons and loops, light horseman's caps for boys… "

6

A letter from Catherine Rathell to Mrs. Mercer indicates the type of millinery and other goods furnished by Mrs. Rathell to her trade:

[Fredericksburg, 1767?]

Dear Madam
I have only a few moments to tell you that Mrs. DICK called to me yesterday Morng to bespake a suit of Lace Linen for Miss MERCER, but she wold not venture to chuse the lace without your seeing it, and some other things which are as follows, and I send them by Mr. Mercers Man—Christmass—Viz

16 Yards of fine Broad lace at 19 Shillgs pr yard.
11 Yards Narrower kind at 12/6 pr Yd
a Superfine pr of paste & firestone clamps6. 0. 0
White flowd Trimed Satin Cloke4.15. 0
a White Hatt Trimed with Robd & Lace1.15. 0
2 pair of white Silk Stockgs at 20/2. 0. 0
1 Blond Hood Cap1. 5. 0
1 Queens Fly with pink & white Egret1. 5. 0
1 fly cap & Lapits wth 29 pink Egret1. 7. 0
l Do Blue Egret1. 9. 6
1 pair of gentlemens lace Ruffles4.10. 0
White fan0.16. 0
fine Carved & painted Do1. 10. 0
2 pr White Gloves0. 5. 0
Mrs. C: Rathell
Send word what sort of a Handkerchief Miss Mercer likes. I hope she will allow me the honour of helping to Dress her the Day of all Days. The lace cannot be Cut (on address side of letter) (New York Historical Society — copy in Research Department)

In October 1771, Catherine Rathell, milliner and store-keeper, had opened a shop in Williamsburg "where Mr. Ayscough lately lived, opposite to the South side of the Capitol." There she advertised "at the cheapest Rates…A GENTELL ASSORTMENT OF MERCERY, MILLINERY, JEWELLERY, &c…" (Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., October 17, 1771)

In December 1771, John Norton, merchant of London, ordered goods shipped at once to Mrs. Rathell in Williamsburg:

[December 29, 1771]

Invoice of Goods to be sent With all the Speed Posible to Mrs. Catherine Rathell in Williamsburg Virginia by Mr. Norton (London)

8 pair of very best Neat Paste Shoe Buckles from 30/ to 50/ a pair
12 pair of Neat high Thread Paste Knee do 1-¾ Inch Long at 10 or 11/ a ps.
12 pr. of handsome New Fashion Gilt Shoe Do With knee to Match but not very small
18 pr. of Plaited Carved Shoe Buckles. I bought them in London last July for 2/ a pr.
7
1 piece of 25 yards of Irish Stout yard Wide Linen at 14d or 15 a yard
3 pair of Plaited Soop Ladles 4 pair of Silver Sauce Spoons with round Bowls & Crooket Handles like the Ladles
3 Good Second hand Silver Watches Cuped from 50/ to £3.
3 Neat Do--Do Pinch Back With plain Green & Blue fish Skin Cases
1 Gross of Bone or Ivory Bokdings
3 Dozn. of Silver----Do.
2 pair of handsome Plaited Candle Sticks from 4 to 5 pounds
2 pair of flat Plaited Do 1dth Snuffers and Extinguishers
24 Very Neat Moroco Pocket Books Pocket Books some with Silver Edges & Pockets at Each Ends, one End with a Lock & Key, and some Stitched with Silver Wire from 15/ to a Guinea, they must be very handsome & have good Instruments
24 Smaller Do from 4/6 to 10/ with Instruments
12 Asses Sking Memordm Books in Gilt Leather Cases & Ribon to pull out
18 of the Best London Razors with Crooket Backs
12 London Do Streight Backs
6 yards of Bright Pink half Ell Pelling Sattin at 3/6 p. yard
6 yards of Handsome Blue Do---Do---at Do
36 yards of White Flannell, the thickest & Best that Can be got for 13 or 14D p yd
N.B. it must be very White as its for Gentlemens Jackets
1 Gross of Blue Silk Jacket Buttons at 2/6 pr Gross the Colour to match the Peelg.
1 Gross of Pink Silk Buttons to Match the Pink Sattin at Do
1 Dozn. of Best and Neatest Buck or Doe Sking Gloves added to 2 Dozn. I sent to you for by Mr. Norton
2 Dozn. of Best Sham Beaver Gloves, if they are very good to send 3 Dozn.
3 Dozn. of the Neatest New Fashion Gentlemens sleeve Buttons

Williamsburg 29 Decr. 1771

12 Handsome Necklaces of Diferent Sorts & Coulars Set in Silver and Some with Earrings from 18 to 20/ a ps.
3 Garnet Springs from 9 to 12/ a ps.
1 oz of Gold flat )
1 oz of Silver Do )
1 oz of Bright Blue Silk Twist ) all to Make Play Purses
1 oz of handsome Pink Do )
1 oz of Green Do )
1 Soft flesh Brush )

ENDORSED:
Virga. 29th Decr. 1771/ Cath. Rathell/Reced 3d Mar. 1772/Goods entd. pa 73/ ans. the March /p Robertson.

(John Norton & Sons Merchants of London and Virginia, pp. 211-212.)

8

Within a month Norton had sent out another invoice of goods to Mrs. Rathell:

Invoice of Goods to be Sent with all the dispatch posible to Cathn. Rathell in Williamsburg Virginia
January the 31st 1772

[only items which seem to apply to millinery and such are listed — taken from complete invoice]

2 pieces of very handsome Black & White Second Mourning Ribbon
3 pieces of Black plain Edged Sattin Ribbon for tieing hair
18 Very Neat green Leather Ladies Pocket Books Silver Locks & good Instruments, 12 of them with Pockets at each End.
12 yards of neat spriged Gause undressed 4 yards of a Sort
3 Dozn. of Blond Lace for Do. from l/6 to 2/6 p yard
6 Nice White Silver paperd Weding fans, pierced Ivery Stocks
4 White Quilted Peeling Child Bed Basket & Pin Cushions well & safe Packed up or the Satin will Mildue & spot
6 cards of Childrens very Neat Small Locket Button Set in Silver
6 powder Machines [?]
6 Tambore floward with Silk Sword Knots
200 of the very long Bonnet or Hat Pins yt are 6 Inches Long
1 Piece of Love Ribd for to tie in Boes Stomachers & Sleeve Knots

ENDORSED: Virga 31st Jnry 1772 Cath' Rathell/ Recd. the 16th May/ Goods Ents. pa: 91/Ans. the July/ p White.

(John Norton & Sons Merchants of London and Virginia, pp. 218-219.)

In 1772, Catherine Rathell carried long advertisements listing goods sold at her store. Millinery is always noted as having been received or "just imported" from London:

HAVING received from London, on Commission, a Parcel of Neat GOODS…
She continues to sell, at her Store, as usual, a very neat Assortment of MILLINERY…(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Jan. 30, 1772)
Just imported from LONDON, and selling by the Subscriber, A LARGE Assortment of MILLINERY, and other GOODS, consisting of the neatest Hats, Cloaks, Bonnets, Teresas, and Whisks, Caps, Hoods, and Fillets,…Patent Net Hoods,… Boys trimmed Satin Caps, Ladies newest fashioned Riding Hats bound and trimmed with Turbans and Feathers,…Gentlemens fine Beaver Hats…fine Night Caps…(Ibid., April 23, 1772.)
Just IMPORTED in the last Ships from London, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber at her store opposite the Raleigh in Williamsburg,
A VERY large and neat Assortment of MILINERY and JEWELLERY, consisting of white Satin and Lustrings, Trimmings for ditto, 9 black and coloured hats and Bonnets, Silk Petticoats, wedding fans and Breast Flowers,… a new Assortment of Patent New Hoods, Muslin, Gauze, Catgut and Wire,… a large Assortment of Ribands, ribbed and plain Silk,…
N.B. She purposes, if a House can be got, to reside at Petersburg from the End of this Court until April, where Ladies and Gentlemen who Please to Favour her with their Commands may be supplied with the above Articles. (Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 22, 1772)

Mrs. Rathell continued to operate in Williamsburg "at her Store opposite the Raleigh:" during 1773, 1774 and until April 1775 according to Virginia Gazette notices. Along with the general assortment of merchandise, she offered to customers millinery of various types. (Purdie and Dixon, October 31, 1773; Ibid., October 20, 1774; Dixon and Hunter, February 25, 1775; Ibid., April 22, 1775.)

In October 1775, M. Brodie (mantua-maker) advertised that Mrs. Rathell's store goods along with shop fixtures, etc., were for sale:1

TO BE SOLD,
At Meeting of the MERCHANT'S in OCTOBER,
All MRS. Rathe11's STOCK IN TRADE, consisting of many different Articles. — I request all who are indebted to the said Mrs. Rathell will be so kind, at this meeting, as to pay off their Accounts to John Tazewell, Esqr; of this city, or to the Subscriber, at Mrs. Rathell's Store, who are authorized to receive such Debts.
M. BRODIE.

At the same Time will be sold a large BOW WINDOW, with Bars and Shutters, some SHOW GLASSES, and GLASS CASES.

(Virginia Gazette, Dixon and Hunter, eds. Oct. 14, 1775)

SARAH PITT — Milliner

Sarah Pitt2 appears in records in 1767 as a store-keeper and milliner. As with Mrs. Rathell, Sarah Pitt advertised that she "has imported in the Argyle, from London, a valuable assortment of Millinery," more particularly described as follows:

…Womens satin hats and bonnets, girls do. boys silk hats and caps with feathers, ribands,…French and Italian egrets and breast flowers, skeleton wires,…black and coloured ostrich feathers,…pins, Milliners needles, common do …
Sarah Pitt.(Ibid., Purdie and Dixon, eds., Nov. 12, 1767)

10

In 1768 (October) and 1769 (May and October), Sarah Pitt continued to advertise in the Virginia Gazette. In December 1769, she offered the usual list of goods and millinery as previously — all imported and sold "at a very low advance." At the bottom of the advertisement Sarah Pitt gave this notice:

N. B. As she has an assistant just arrived from London, who understands the millinery business, which she proposes to carry on, mounting fans, and making cardinals and bonnets she hopes for a continuance of the Ladies custom, which shall be acknowledged as a favor.(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Dec. 14, 1769)

A long notice by Sarah Pitt appeared in the Virginia Gazette of April 19, 1770, dated from Williamsburg. She emphasized that she still imported "a large assortment of MILLINERY, and other GOODS, as a low advance." Among the millinery items listed were:

…crimp'd caps with lappets, gauze fillets, neat dressed caps, puffed ditto, laced ditto, large dressed fillets and flowers, small ditto, pink and blue lined childrens caps, lace and flower caps, Italian caps, common ditto, boys black silk hats, Ostrich feathers, blue, green, and white sattin caps, gold and velvet pocket books, gold pincushions, … rich fashionable ribbands,…white and blue feathers,… milleners common and darning needles, minikins, short whites and corking pins,… toys…ladies black furred riding hats, feathers for ditto, mens beaver and castor hats, childrens ditto laced and plain…
Sarah Pitt

N.B. As she has got a millener come in, she carries on the millenery business; also making of cardinals, bonnets and hats, and mounting of fans, &c.

(Ibid., Rind, ed.)

The death of Sarah Pitt was reported in the Virginia Gazette of November 12, 1772.

JANE AND MARGARET HUNTER—Milliners and Store-Keepers Williamsburg 1766-1780

Jane Hunter employed her sister, Margaret who was a trained milliner, as her assistant. When she returned to England, Margaret took over the business. The earliest date on record that Jane Hunter was operating in Williamsburg in October 10, 1766:

JUST IMPORTED, And sold by the subscriber in Williamsburg, A GENTEEL ASSORTMENT of MILLINERY GOODS, viz. Fashionable (ca.?) Italian caps, egrets and fillets, breast flowers, turbans and tippets, best French bead, pearl and jet necklaces, earrings, minionet and blonde lace, blond net, yard and yard and (sic) wide book muslins, fine thick muslin, plain and spotted gauze, fashionable ribands and trimmings, black love ribands, handkerchiefs, and egrets, black fans, black mittens, French and 11 and gazed kid and lamb gloves and mittens, white fans and white shoes, floss and netting silk, cotton thread, skeleton and skein wire, calash bonnets, &c.
JANE HUNTER

? FANS mounted, and all sorts of MILLINERY made up in the newest fashion.

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 19 [17], 1766)

In October 1767 Jane Hunter announced in the Virginia Gazette that "a sister had just arrived from London who understands the millinery business" and that the two would not only sell "genteel Assortment of Millinery" but also would make "hats and bonnets, in the newest taste; where Ladies may be supplied on the shortest notice":

Just IMPORTED, and to be SOLD at the lowest prices,
A GENTEEL ASSORTMENT OF
MILLINERY,
CONSISTING OF
FASHIONABLE ribands, suits of blond lace, caps, fillets, stomachers and sleeve knots, tippets, breast flowers, egrets, India pearl, French bead, and jet necklaces, earrings and egrets, fine edgings, pearl, Jacob's ladder, doubled edged joining, and other minionet laces, blond and black do. plain and figured gauzes, parisnet, fine catgut, white crape, great choice of fine thick and book muslins, lawns, cambrick, long lawn, fashionable trimmings, white and coloured fans, black silk gloves and mittens, leather do. fine cotton and French thread, skeleton and skeign wire, paste hair pins and shoe buckles, calash and other bonnets and hats. Also a great variety of fan mounts.

The subscriber having a sister just arrived from LONDON, who understands the millinery business, she hopes to carry it on to the satisfaction of those who shall favour them with their commands. They have imported all the materials for making hats and bonnets, in the newest taste; where ladies may be supplied on the shortest notice, by
Their humble servants,
M. & J. HUNTER

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 1, 1767)

In October 1768 Jane Hunter advertised among other millinery items "fashionable trimmings…fringe for mourning…"(Ibid., Oct. 20, 1768.)

Jane Hunter's "state of health" took her to England in May 1769. Her sister, Margaret, operated the business in Williamsburg during Jane Hunter's absence. (Ibid., April 13, 1769.)

In May 1771 Margaret Hunter located her millinery shop as "next Door to mr Robert Anderson's Tavern." At the same time she advertised that "She makes Ladies Hats, Bonnets, Cloaks and Cardinals; and Mounts Fans in the neatest Manner."(Ibid., May 2, 1771.)

In June 1771 the notice in the Virginia Gazette is styled thus: "MARGARET HUNTER, MILLINER, Williamsburg." (Ibid., June 20, 1771.)

12

In October 1771 Margaret Hunter continued to advertise "A FRESH Assortment of MILLINERY, &c" at the shop lately occupied by Dr. Andrew Anderson. (Ibid., Oct. 24,. 1771.)

One year later, Margaret Hunter was still in Williamsburg, advertising her millinery and other goods:

Imported in the PLANTER, Captain MILLER, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber in Williamsburg, on reasonable Terms,
A NEAT Assortment of MILLINERY, &c viz. Caps dressed and undressed, Stomachers, Sleeve Knots, Silver Blond for making Do. and for trimming, Bath, Brussels, and Minionet Lace, Joining Do. for Hoods and Handkerchiefs, Net and Patent Hoods, Pieces of Patent Net for Handkerchiefs and Ruffles, Black and Blond Lace, Joing Do. for Hoods, Thread and Blond Edging, fine and coarse Catgut, Jacob's Ladder, Suits of Dresden Work, Hats and Bonnets, black, blue, white, and figured Satin for Cloaks, Lace Satin for Do. Chip, Hats, blue marking Thread, spotted, flowered, and plain Gauze Handkerchiefs and Aprons, white and coloured Fans with Ivory and Bone Sticks, rich white Satin, flowered, striped, and plain Lustrings, black, white, blue, and Pink Persians, Paste Necklaces and Earrings, Gold Lockets, Do. with Garnets, Paste, Garnet, and Foil Stone Crosses, Paste Combs and Buckles, Marcafite, Paste and Coque de Pearl Sprigs, Fancy Wax Necklaces, Wax, Coral, Agate, and real and mock Garnet Beads, Smelling Bottles, Paste Drop Earrings, Silver Toothpick Cases, plain and chased Carals, an Assortment of Thread, Ladies black, white, and blue Satin Hussars, black and white Beaver Hats for Do. Satin Hussars and Ostrich Feathers for Children, Silk, Kid, and Lamb Gloves and Mits, Pins and Needles, blue, white and red Satin, and black Stuff quilted Coats, Hair Rolls and Curls, black Pins, Cane for Bonnets, Bunch, Skeleton, and Cork Screw Wine, Hardham's Rappee No. 9, Weston's Scotch Snuff, Suits of Childbed Linen, Satin and Dimity Baskets, Pincushions and Lines, striped, plain, flowered, Book, and Yard and a Half wide thick Muslins, Dimity, Lace, Fringe, and Muslin, for Childrens Robes, Diaper Clouting, long Lawn, a Variety of Ribands, Wax Top and Drop Earrings, black and coloured Velvet Collars, Italian Breast Flowers, white and coloured Satin, embroidered, Queen's Silk, and Stuff Shoes for Ladies, Silk, Cotton, Thread, and Worsted Stockings, Didsbury's Shoes, Buckskin Gloves for Gentlemen, a Variety of Toys, dressed and undressed Babies, green Silk Purses, &c.
MARGARET HUNTER.

Hats, Bonnets, and Cloaks, made in the neatest Manner and newest Fashion.

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 15, 1772.)

There were two long notices in the Virginia Gazette for 1773 and two for 1774 — each by Margaret Hunter. Each notice emphasized as before that her millinery was "Just imported, and to be sold…on very reasonable Terms" and the assortment was "genteel" and fresh. Items not carried before (judging from former advertisements in the Virginia Gazette) were "Suits of Blond," "fine Suits of Dresden," "fine and coarse Chip Hats,". "Shennel," toys, umbrellas,

"Busts of the late Lord Botetourt,"
etc.

13

The advertisement listing the last mentioned article follows:

Just imported, and to be sold by the Subscriber, on very reasonable Terms, in Williamsburg,
A GENTEAL Assortment of MILLINERY in the newest Taste, Brussels, Minionet, and Blond Lace, a Variety of Coloured and White Silk Stockings, Thread and Cotton Do. Plain, Striped, and Sprigged Muslins, Jewellery, Childbed Linen, Robes, Didsbury's Shoes, Gresham's Satin and Calimenco Do. Do. Ladies Riding Hats, Children's Do. with Feathers, Satin Quilts, Gentlemens Embroidered Wistcoat Patterns, White Quilting for Ladies Petticoats, very fine Hyson Tea, Busts of the late Lord Botetourt, and many other Articles.
MARGARET HUNTER,(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., May 12, 1774)

Margaret Hunter's last notice in the Virginia Gazette (Purdie and Dixon, eds.) follows:

WILLIAMSBURG, February 3, 1780

I HAVE FOR SALE, at my store, opposite Mr. Ambrose Davenport's tavern, in this city, an elegant assortment of the most beautiful calico and chintz patterns, black and white gauze, and a small quantity of the best soap.
M. HUNTER.

N.B. I still carry on the milliners business, and would willingly take goods on commission, at a moderate advance.

JANE CHARLTON

As before stated, Jane Hunter married Edward Charlton, wig-maker and barber, of Williamsburg. She continued to maintain a store and advertised all kinds of goods — millinery among them. Mrs. Charlton gave notice in the Virginia Gazette (Purdie and Dixon, eds.) on October 24, 1771, that she had "Just IMPORTED in the Nancy, Captain BARRON, and to be SOLD on the most reasonable Terms, by the Subscriber, in Williamsburg, A GENTEEL Assortment of MILLINARY, SILKS, and JEWELLERY." Among the goods offered for sale were "flowered, white, and coloured Satins, Brocades, plain, striped, and coloured Lustrings, black and white Cloak Satins, Black and white Satin Cloaks, white and coloured Satin petticoats…Hats and Bonnets…Net Hoods…Chintz Colours, &c &c."

In May 1772, Mrs. Charlton advertised millinery along with the usual mercantile wares: "…Nosegays, Fancy, laced, and Gauze Caps…Boys blue Satin Caps…white Satins and Silks, coloured Silks, Trimmings for Ditto &c."(Ibid,. May 7, 1772.)

In October 1772 the Virginia Gazette carried notices by Mrs. Charlton of:

…A.Great Variety of fashionable figured white Lustrings, rich plain white Satin, flowered ditto, Brocades, striped and plain Lustrings, white and coloured Persians, white and black Cloak Satin, ditto Bonnets and Cloaks, ditto Mode…Blond 14 Dress Caps, Fancy ditto, plain Gauze ditto, Suits of Blond Lace, Brussels, Machlin, and Minionet Lace…white and black Blond Lace …rich suits of Dresden Work…Robes, James1…Pincushions and Lines, a large Assortment of fashionable Ribands…White Feathers for caps…Cotton Thread, Lisle and Ounce ditto, Tapes, Bindings, Bobbin, &c.
JANE CHARLTON

? Cloaks, Bonnets, and all Sorts of Millinery, made in the newest fashion.

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 15, 1772)

In November 1774 Mrs. Charlton noted that "I find it necessary to go for England in the spring, it is hoped those ladies and gentlemen who have favoured me With their orders, and have not discharged them, will be kind enough to make payment as early as possible, that I may be enable to put my designs in execution; which will greatly add to the many obligations already conferred on their humble servant."(Virginia Gazette, Pinkney, ed., November 3 [4], 1774.)

M.BRODIE—Mantua-Maker

In October 1771 M. Brodie, mantua-maker, advertised from Williamsburg:

M. BRODIE, Just arrived from LONDON, Makes and trims, in the newest Taste, Sacks and Coats, Gowns and Petticoats, all Sorts of Ladies Brunswick and Jesuit Dresses, Sultana Robes, Robedecores, &c. She served her Time, and was Successour, to the original Makers, at their Warehouse in Pall Mall; her Partner still continues to carry on the Business in London, by whose Assistance, and that of the Queen's Mantua-Maker, she is every three Months to be supplied with the Fashions… Ladies whom it may not suit to come to Town may be fitted by sending her a Pattern. She lodges, till a more convenient House can be got, at Mrs. Rathell's Store, where Mr. Ayscough formerly lived, on the south side of the Capitol…(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Oct. 24, 1771)

Mrs. Brodie continued in Williamsburg until 1775 when her departure was announced in the Virginia Gazette. (Purdie, editor, November 24, 1775.)

15

MARY DICKINSON—Milliner

Mary Dickinson operated a store and a millinery business in Williamsburg. Issues of the Virginia Gazette from April 19, 1770, to April 12, 1776, contain advertisements of Mrs. Dickinson's wares at various locations in the city — "William Holt's store," "next door to Mr. James Geddy's Shop," and "the Store above the Coffeehouse."

As with Catherine Rathell, Mary Dickinson plied her trade in Annapolis and in Williamsburg at the same time. The Maryland Gazette for September 1771 carried a notice from Mary Dickinson that her goods "Just imported from London" contained among other items: "elegant Assortment of Jewellery, Millinery, and other Goods…nice woolpacks with drop Curls…also Mens Stock Tape pleated…" In October 1771 Mary Dickinson had returned to her store in Williamsburg and was advertising her millinery and other goods "well chose" to her customers there. (For further study of Mary Dickinson in Williamsburg see Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., April 19, 1770 supplement; November 22, 1770 supplement; October 17, 1771; April 30, 1772; and Purdie, ed., April 12, 1776.)

It is interesting to observe that M. Dickenson (Mary Dickinson) in September 1772 was located in Annapolis "next door to Mr. Hewitt, the Barber."(Maryland Gazette, September 24, 1772.) Hewitt had moved from Williamsburg to Annapolis in 1762. (Ibid., July. 8, 1762.)

MARY DAVENPORT—Milliner

Only one reference to Mary Davenport appears in the Virginia Gazette. She conducted a store "near the Capitol, Williamsburg" and sold millinery goods principally:

Just and imported, and to be SOLD by the Subscriber, near the Capitol, Williamsburg,
RICH white Satins, plain and flowered, plain white Lustrings, striped and flowered ditto, striped and spotted ditto, coloured ditto, Shot ditto, black ditto, coloured rich Ducapes, coloured Sarcenets for Summer Wear, fine white and coloured grounded Cottons, Trimmings of all Sorts, both Silk and Thread, Silver ditto, rich Satin quilted Petticoats, best Bombazeen, best Norwich Crape, Hat ditto, black Fans, white Silver-mounted Ivory and coloured ditto, Best Gresham's white, coloured, and black Satin Pumps, ditto Everlasting and Calimanco, Children's ditto, white Silk Stockings, fine Cotton ditto, white and black Silk Gloves and Mits, white and coloured Kid ditto, Pocket Handkerchiefs, Patheon Bonnets, Caps, Net Hoods, Purple and white Calicoes, Thread, Tapes, Silk Laces, Silk Ferrets, Persian Linings, black Gauze Riband, Lustring ditto, &c &c.
MARY DAVENPORT. (Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., November 12, 1772)

There was a "French frock maker" in Williamsburg in 1791. (Galt Ms Book, June 8, 1791.).

16

III. VARIETIES OF HATS SOLD IN WILLIAMSBURG

Gathered from many advertisements of milliners which have appeared in the Virginia Gazette, the writer has listed the types and varieties of hats sold in Williamsburg:

ribbon capsBrunswick bonnets
fly capsgauze hoods
flower capsbonnets (lace, calash, &c)
night capshoods (net and otherwise)
boys' capswomen's riding hats
boys' silk hatsmen's riding hats
children's lace hatsturbans
men's beaver hatsteresas
men's castor hatssilk hats
gauze hatsfillets
Italian hatschip hats
velvet hatsfur hats
crimped caps with lappetsfelt hats
pink and blue lined children's capscane hats
whimsey caps(trimmings: love riband — black for mourning)
lace caps

IV. GENTLEMEN'S ATTIRE ADVERTISED UNDER "MILLINERY"

A list taken from the Virginia Gazette of gentlemen's attire included in milliners' advertisements:

Ribbon Ruffs
White flannel for gentlemen's coats
Gentlemen's Gresham and Didsbury shoes
Gentlemen's Didsbury shoes
Gentlemen's silk arid cotton hose
Gentlemen's gloves — silk, kid and lambskin, buck doe, beaver, thread
Gentlemen's lace ruffles
Gentlemen's bags and roses (for wigs)
Gentlemen's fine Minionet lace ruffles, worsted ruffles, etc.
Gold and scarlet sword suits
Gentlemen's very fine furred hats and feathers
Gentlemen's Morocco pocket books and glasses
Gentlemen's embroidered waistcoat patterns1
Gentlemen's white and colored silk hose
Waiting boys' caps

The Maryland Gazette of November 1768 noted that "Maria Hume, milliner…makes Mens Linen of all kinds." She also advertised "Slips and Frocks for you Ladies, made in the newest Manner." (Maryland Gazette, Nov. 24, 1768.)2

17

V. TYPES OF GAUZE, RIBBONS, AND BUTTONS USED IN MILLINERY1

From the Norton Collection of Uncatalogued Manuscripts, Research Department — "…delivered by John Hatley Norton & Company to Moor's field in Virginia under WM Hackney's direction…Winchester (Virginia) Augst 19 1784":

(Types of Gauze)

  • White thread Gauze
  • black silk do
  • white Silk do
  • Strip Silk do black
  • blue do
  • Stamped Gauze
  • Spotted do
  • Diamond do
  • heart do
  • Stamp blk do

(Types of Ribbons)

  • blue ribbon
  • red do
  • Strip do
  • figur do
  • white do
  • red & white
  • pink ribbon
  • green do
  • narrow black2
  • colourd
  • Satin blk
  • figurd do Satin blk
  • Black Taffety
18

(Types of Buttons)

  • shirt buttons
  • sleeve buttons 42 pair
  • large coat do
  • small coat do
  • large metal do
  • small metal do
  • double gilt do
  • sugar loaf do
  • white buttons
  • blue mohair do
  • death's heads

VI. DRESS MATERIALS USED BY WILLAMSBURG MILLINERS

  • Ducapes — a silk fabric
  • Sarcents — silk for linings usually
  • Ferrets — ribbons
  • Lustring — a glossy silk fabric
  • Calimanco
  • Chintz
  • Tambore — silver or gold-embroidery on silk or wool
  • Linens
  • Kenting — fine linen cloth
  • Calico
  • Laces
  • Flannels
  • Dimities
  • Durants
  • Gauze
  • Cambrick
  • Brocades

VII. OTHER MILLINERY ADVERTISEMENTS (VIRGINIA, MARYLAND, AND SOUTH CAROLINA)

(Mary Hill — Milliner)

(Petersburg)

Just from London, a fashionable Assortment of MERCERY, MILLINERY,and JEWELLERY, to be SOLD at a reasonable Advance, for ready Money, by the Subscriber in Petersburg, viz. … Satin Cloaks and Hats, Shades and Bonnets,… a variety of Dress and other Caps,… Boys Satin Caps and Feathers, Plumes, Feathers for Ladies Hats, covered and plain woolpacks,… Patent Net Hoods,…Ribands, Silk Hose,… Ladies Morocco Pocket Books of Different Colours…
MARY HILL.

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie & Dixon, eds., Nov. 5, 1772)

(MARY AND ANNE STRACHAN)

(Richmond)

The following genteel Assortment of MILLINERY, just imported in the Industry, Captain Lowes, is now selling off by MARY and ANNE Strachan, at their shop in Richmond Town, for ready Money, or short Credit.

FULL suits of rich Minionet and Blond Lace, Suits of deep and 19 second Mourning, full Suits of Book Muslin and Gauze, Suits of Head Clothes for young Ladies of different Ages, Variety of laced Caps,… Net Hoods…Gauze Hoods. Children's Sashes and Teresas, Boys Satin Caps and Feathers, Ladies Riding Hats, Mode and Satin Cardinals and Bonnets of different colours;… Honeycomb and other new fashioned Riband Ruffs, Velvet Collars, beaded and spangled ditto,… Pins, Threads, Tapes, Penknives, Scissors… &c &c. All kinds of MILLINERY made in the newest Taste.

(Virginia Gazette, Purdie and Dixon, eds., Nov. 5, 1772)

(Norfolk)

M. EVANS,
Lately arrived from London, at her store the Corner of Church Street, Norfolk…WASHES BLOND LACE and GAUZE, equal to new; likewise WASHES and MENDS SILK STOCKINGS…

(Virginia Gazette, Nov, 28, 1771)

In July 1772, M. Evans was in Annapolis "lately arrived from London…(sold) masquerading caps, fillets for Young Ladies, Bonnets and Tippets for ditto, Puddings for Children…"(Maryland Gazette, Aug. 10, 1772)

(JANE AND ANNE NELSON — Milliners)

(Annapolis)

JANE and ANNE NELSON, Milliners and Mantua Makers… make all kinds of Milliners and Mantua-makers Work in the most elegant and fashionable Manner…

(Maryland Gazette, Nov. 19, 1772)
South Carolina Gazette
August 21, 1762
Copy taken from Spruill's Women's Life and Work in the Southern Colonies, P. 283:

(1762)

AGNES LIND, Milliner,
Has just imported in the Prince of Wales, Capt. Curling, from London, a neat assortment of millinery and other Goods, viz.

BROWN taffetyWomens and girls scarlet cardinals
Pink and blue mantuas,Scarlet cloaks and quilted coats,
Lutestrings,Womens and girls coloured and
Alamode,black sattin hats,
Poplins,Satin shoes,
Flowered dresdens,Plain and figured ribbons,
Plain and figured messinets,Dresden and pinked handkerchiefs,
Gauze caps and fillets,Head lace and footing,
Silver stomachers & pompoonsFine India chintzes
Gauze stomachers with ditto,White & coloured callicoes
Plain and flowered sattin cardinals,Clear and long lawns,
Plain and figured silk polonolse,Britannias and Pomeranias
20
Pistol lawns and filefias,Men and womens leather shoes,
Men & boys caster & felt hats,Dresden and stock tape,
White and black glazed mitts,Holland and diaper ditto,
Coloured, wash leather, and sattin ditto,Broad tape and bobbing,
Clouting diaper,Silk and cotton laces,
Irish shirting and sheeting linen,Silk, cotton and thread mitts
Blue and green plainsWhite and cloured fans,
SwanskinPins, patches, and masks
Blue and white linsey,Sets of necklaces and ear-rings
Men and women's worsted stockings,Pearl and blue stone ditto,
Womens & girls plain, pink do.Cinnamon, nutmegs, cloves, mace,
Thread and cotton ditto,and black papper,
Boys caps with black and white feathersScented and plain hair powder,
Cruels and canvas,Poland starch, & powder blue,
Fine hyson tea,Wash balls and teeth powder,
Durham mustardFine enamell's & japanned snuff box
Pigtail and cut tobaccoFine India china in sets,
High and low toast snuff,Enamelled and blue and white bowls
Short and long pipes,Enamelled and blue and white coffee
Womens and girls everlasting shoes,cups
Red, black, plain and toed clogs,Enamelled and blue and white cups
and saucers, tea-pots, milk-pots, &c. &c.

VIII. LIST OF SIGNS

Milliners and Haberdashers:

"Martha Wheatland and Sister Milleners & Haberdashers at Queen Charlott's Head Near Wood Street, Cheapside, London Sells all Sorts of Haberdashery & Fancy Millenery Goods at the Lowest Prices"(London Tradesmen's Cards of the XVIII Century by Ambrose Heal, London, 1925, Illustration LXVI)

Hat-Makers:

"Charles Paget Hatt-Maker at the Sign of the Black Boy and Hatt, near Red Lion Street, in High Holbourn, London. Makes Fine Beaver & other Hatts. Wholesale and Retale. N.B. Hatts Turn'd & Dyed."(Ibid., Illustration XLIV)
"Nathaniel Waters, Hat-Maker, From Philadelphia, At the Sign of the Hat-in-Hand, near the Church in Annapolis,…" (Maryland Gazette, April 22, 1756)

Mercers:

Benjamin Cole at the Sun in St Paul's Church-Yard London.(Illustration LIII, London Tradesmen's Cards…)
"Cranston Mercer from Round Court at the three Nuns & Wheatsheaf in Great Bridge Street Westminster Sell Variety of Silks and Stuffs… Hats, Bonnets,…" (Ibid., Illustration LIX)
21
"Wm Ryder & Ednd Nicklin Mercers, at the Indian Queen by the Cloisters, West-Smithfield, London Sell all Sorts of Rich Damasks, Brocaded Silks, Paduasoys, Tabbys, Sattins, Ducapes, Mantuas, Shagreens, Sergdusoys, Stript & Sprig's Lutestrings, Dutch Genoi & English Velvets, Black Silks, Bambazeens, Norwich Grapes, Poplins, Silk & Worsted Plads & Damasks, Broad & Narrow Camblets, Calamancoes, Super-fine Russels, with great Choice of Stuffs of every Sort, Hair Prunelloes & Princes Stuffs for Clergymen and Gentlemen of the Law, Fine Cloths and Duffins, Variety of Manteelets & Hoods, Short Clokes & Long Scarves, Quilted & Hoop Pettycoats, Ladys Riding Habits &c. Mens Gowns & Benyans, Widows Weeds…"(Ibid., Illustration LXI)
"Edward Argles… at ye Indian King London Sells Variety of Mercery Goods…"(Ibid., Illustration LXIII)

IX. PRICES OF LADIES' DRESSES

In response to a query of December 14, 1948, in regard to the prices of ladies' dresses, Mr. A. P. Middleton wrote:

"In the 1680's a Virginia lady had an outfit valued at £14.19.0, that included a red, a blue, and a black silk petticoat, a petticoat of India silk and of worsted prunella, a striped linen and a calico petticoat, a black silk gown, a scarlet waistcoat, with silver lace, a white knit waist-coat, a striped stuff jacket, a worsted prunella mantle, a sky-colored satin bodice, a pair of red paragon bodices, three fine and three coarse holland aprons, seven handkerchiefs, and two hoods.

In 1741 William Beverley ordered from England "a gentile suit of flowered Silk Cloaths" for his daughter Elizabeth, specifying that it was "to cost about £12." Earlier (1740) he had ordered "a suit of lute string cloaths or any other fashionable silk cloaths not exceeding £5 price."

A lady in Charleston, shortly before the Revolution, had a brown "grograin gown" trimmed with gold lace that was valued at £15. She also had a stripd lustring gown and coat valued at £15 and a "Gold Broacaded Night (Evening?) Gown with a blew silk Tail" worth £35, a white Persian quilted petticoat valued at £7 and a white padua soy petticoat worth £25.

In 1778 Mrs. R. Randolph paid £39.7.0 (in inflated wartime currency, no doubt) for a white satin bonnet and cardinal and white satin quilted coat." (See Research Query Folder for 1948 , Dept . of Research Files.)

X. Illustrations (at end of text)

Illustration #1 —The Hatter — taken from the Album of American History, p. 311
Illustration #2 —New Head Dresses for 1772 — taken from Women's Life and Work in the Southern Colonies, p. 122 Illustration #3 —Various Head-Dresses — taken from The Eighteenth Century…France 1700-1789 by Lacrouix, pp. 478-79
(Original sources of Illustrations 1 and 2 are given under the illustrations
Report prepared by
Mary A. Stephenson
September, 1951

Footnotes

^1 In Maryland, Maria Hume, milliner from London just arrived at Annapolis in July 1768, announced that she "Makes all Sorts of MILLINERY Work…also washes laces…and makes Mens Linen of all kinds." (Maryland Gazette, November 24, 1768.)
^2 In 1778 Mrs. Frances Randolph ordered from London "a Sattin Bonnet & Cardinal and a paper Hatt Box." (Tucker-Coleman Uncat. Mss, folder 2, bottom file box right.)
^1 Mrs. Rathell perished at sea when the Peggy Fisher sank off the coast of Liverpool in November 1775. (Virginia Gazette, Dixon and Hunter, eds., February 17, 1775 [1776].) Evidently Mrs. Rathell had decided to leave Virginia permanently. Whether her motives in this decision were prompted by loyalism or the financial conditions relative to the Revolution, one cannot say.
^2 Prior to her marriage to George Pitt, apothecary, Sarah Packe owned the Pitt-Dixon House (colonial lot 47). By 1758, Sarah and George Pitt were occupying a dwelling and store-house on the property.
^1 "James" according to the Oxford English Dictionary, was "A kind of dress or frock for children."
^1 Patterns for waistcoats, surtout Coats and jackets for men were sold by general stores in Williamsburg and elsewhere in Virginia. (See Virginia Gazette Index.)
^2 By 1793 Maria Hume had removed to Fredericksburg where she carried on a business of general dry goods "with MILLINARY and MEN'S CLOTHES ready made." (Virginia Herald and Fredericksburg Advertiser, September 26, 1793.)
^1 John Lord Sheffield in his Observations on the Commerce of the American States (London, 1783) under "Haberdashery and Millinery" says: "Fine linen tapes, incles and fine thread, are best from Holland or Flanders; but the common British tapes are cheapest, and also all kinds of worsted bindings, garters, coarse threads and sewing silks. Our ribbands are made of Turkey, Bengall, China, and Italian silks. (The average annual amount of ribbands manufactured at Coventry is about 500,000£)…English ribbands have the preference all over Europe … France may be a competitor with us in black modes and satins, but at present we have a superior art in finishing them, as well as fine ribbands, which the French have not hitherto been able to acquire. In persians and sarenets we have the advantage. Gauzes are cheapest and best from Britain. As America takes its fashions from England, millinery goods will go from hence in larger quantities, as they have always done. Muslins also will come most reasonable from Britain … Pins and needles, and all small wares, will come as cheap from Britain as from any country. (pp. 29-30)
^2 Jane Hunter advertised "black love ribbons" for sale in Williamsburg in 1766. The Oxford English Dictionary states: "love ribbon; a narrow gauze ribbon with satin stripes."

RR011501The Hatter — taken from the Album of American History, p. 311
Illustration #1

RR011502New Head Dresses for 1772 — taken from Women's Life and Work in the Southern Colonies, p. 122
Illustration #2

Eighteenth Century Head Dresses[Eighteenth Century Head Dresses]

RR011504Various Head-Dresses — taken from The Eighteenth Century…France 1700-1789 by Lacrouix, p. 478.
Illustration #3-1

RR011505Various Head-Dresses — taken from The Eighteenth Century…France 1700-1789 by Lacrouix, p. 479.
Illustration #3-2