Writings of William Byrd II (1674-1744), of Westover - fragmentary rough draft, in his hand, of the November 5-22, 1728 entries in his Secret History of the Dividing Line, later revised as the History of the Dividing Line Betwixt Virginia and North Carolina.
CWF Rockefeller Library, Special Collections - SCMS 1940.2

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[fading]
had [fading]
to [fading]
[God only. The][fading]
[illegible] over. In the [fading and torn]
Cascade Creek, & from thence [torn]
to the Dan, which we forded with [torn]
because the water was deeper than [torn]
it before, unfortunate [illegible]wasshort a [torn]
second time by the fall of his horse[torn]
hurt. My Horse made a false step, so[torn] was all underwater, but he recovered him[self][torn]
much a doe.) Haveing day enough left, we[torn]
far as Low-land creek, where we took up[torn]
and had great plenty both of Canes &[torn]
Grass for ourthe Horses. But JamesWhitt[torn]
tired 2 miles short of our campoff, and [torn]
Astrolabes. The truth of it is, we made a [torn]
not less than 14 miles in the round about[torn]
came, tho' it did not exceed ten [upon] the[torn]
my Steed by walking great part of the way[torn]
[illegible]it being Levil & well cleard, made [torn]
tolerable. The Indian kill'd a young B[torn]
of which we pickt very clean, [illegible][torn]
[rubbing]less gay, than he[torn]
us Food was plenty.[torn]
We sat [illegible] out til near 12[torn] [fading]
p2 [torn]Creek, which
[torn]nd it near the Banks of
[torn]tuously here upon Canes,
w[torn]ounded a Buck, which made him
[torn]and even pursue them 40 yards with
[torn]he got away from us, chooseing rather
[torn]selves a supper, than to more cruel man. How
[torn]ther Gunners had better fortune, in killing a Doe,
[torn]year-old cubb. Thus Providence supply'd us eve-
[torn]with food sufficient for us, making the Barren
[torn]ess a Theater of Plenty. The wind blew very
[illegible] a hard Frost. Our Journey this day
[torn]exceed 5 Miles, great part of which in con-
[trast] to my Horse I performed afoot, notwithstan
[torn]way was mountainous, and the Leaves that co[faded]
[torn]Hills as slippery as Ice.

[torn]dispatching our Pioneers away at 8 a clock,
[torn]owd 'em at ten. The Ground was very hilly, & full of
[torn]wood, but our Pioneers had helpt that inconveni-
[torn]r Journey was 8 miles by the Line, but near ten
[torn]Path, which was not quite so strait. The Hunters [torn][mo]re fortunate than ordinary, killing no less than
[torn]d as many Turkys. This made them impatient
[torn]early, that they might enjoy the fruits of their
[torn]arrivd by 2 a clock on the Banks of
[torn]markt out our Quarters, where[rubbing] Horses
[torn]as our selves.[illegible] They were now grown so
[torn]when we dismounted: and those
[torn]food, throve leas
[torn]than the rest

p3

8.

The Pioneers took their departure about 9, and [were]
out upon their Track at 10, and found the ground ris[ing]
and falling all the way between the 2 Fords of the Riv[er]
The first of these we passt at first setting out, B[faded]
Hix and the Indian undertook to go round [faded]
the River without crossing it at all. This they performd
making the distance no more than 12 Miles. About
a mile from ourthe Camp, they met with a Creek whose
Banks were fotifyd with high cliffs, which gaind it
the name of Cliff-Creek. Near 3 miles beyond that
they forded over another creek, on whose margin grew
plenty of Canes, and this was called Hixes Creek from
the name of the Discoverer. Between these 2 creeks lys
a Levil of Exceeding good Land, full of large Trees
& Black Mold. We that march't upon the Line past
over Cane Creek some thing more than 4 miles from
the Camp, and 3 miles [beyond] that we forded the Dan
for the last time passing [through a] Forrest of Canes
before we got at it [blot]all Joy to us to find
ourselves safe over all [the waters] thatmight could retard
our Journey home. Our Distance upon the Line was
7 miles, and where we encampt afforded good Forrage
for the Horses, which we had favourd by walking the
greater part of the way. The Indian brought us the
Primeing of a Fat Doe, which he had killd too far off
for him to carry the whole. This & 2 Turkys that our
men shot, made up our Bill of Fare this Evening.

9

Dr Humdrum got up so early that it made him quite
peevish, especially now we were out of the Latitude. [A]
fat Bear, with which he formerly keptusd to keep up his good hu[mour]
It was necessary to hurry out the Pioneers by 8 a clock
because great part of the Journey was over-grown with B[torn]
4.p4 However about 5 miles of the Days work were very open
and tolerably levil. The distance in all was 12 miles by
the Line, tho' we made 15 of it by picking our waythe winding path we
came. of this I footed it at least 8 miles, notwithstand-
ing my servant had scorcht my Boots by holding them
too near the Fire. The length of our march harras'd the
Horses verymuch so that Page was obliged to leave his, 2 miles
short of our Journeys end, and several others had much adoe to
drag one leg after another. In less than half a mile from
the Dan we crosst Cocquade Creek, so calld from our be-
gining there to wear the Turky Beard in our Hats by
way of Cocquade. This we made one of the Badges of a
new order, calld the Order of ma-osti, signifying in
the Saponi Language a Turkys-Beard. The other Badge
is a Wild Turky in Gold with the wings expanded, &
a collar round its neck with this motto engraven upon
it, vice coturnicum, as most orders have been Religi-
ous in their original, so this was devised in gratefull Remem-
brance of our having been supported in the Barren Wilder-
ness so many weeks, with Wild Turkys instead of Quails.
From thence we continued our march to Buffalo-Creek on
which we encampt. Here our Horses made better chear than
we, for the Indian killd no thing but one Turky. However
with what remaind of our former good fortune, this was
sufficient to keep Famine, and consequently Mutinyout of the camp out of our Camp.

10.

This being Sunday we rested ourselves and our Horseswe observd the 4th commandment, only
our Hunters went out to provide a Dinner for the rest, which
was matter of necessity. They fired the woods in a Ring which burning
inwards drove the Deer to the center, where they were easily
killd. This sport is called Fire-hunting, & is much practiced 5.p5 by the Indians, and Frontier inhabitantsand some English as barbarous as Indians[torn]
shot 3 Deadwere slaughtered after this manner of which they brought one
to the camp, and were content only to prime the other 2. Besides
these Tho. Short brought in a Doe which made us live in
full luxury. William Pool complaind that tho' his Sto-
mach was good & he eat a great deal, yet he hardly ever
went to Stool without the help of Physick. This made
him very full and uneasy, giving him pains both in his
Stomach and Bowels. First I gave him a Dose of Andersons
Pills; which gaveafforded him very little ease. Then I prescribd a
small dose of Ipocoacanna to be taken in hot Broth well
seasond with salt, which took off the Emetick Quality and
turnd it downwards into a gentle Purge. This not only emp-
tyd him & gave him ease, but brought him to be very regular
in his Evacuations, by being now and then repeated. Page
went out in quest of his Horse and brought him to the camp
pretty well recruited. The absence of most of ourthe men di-
minisht our Congregation so much, that we who remaind
behind were contented with Prayers. I read a great deal & then
wrote a letter to my wife with design to send an Express with
it so soon as we got amongst the Inhabitants.

11.

By the favour of good weather, and the impatience of being
at home, we decampt as soon as we coudearly : But there was none
of the Company so very hasty as Orion. He coud not
have been more uneasy tho' he had a mistress at Wil-
liamsburgh But I suspect the true reason for his being
so much upon the Spur, was, the belief he had in his own
Dreams. He had dream't it seems that Colo Beverly was dead
who was Surveyor Genll the succession of which Place he
had been promisd by his Patron the Commissary. But he fear
yd his absence might prejudice that Pretention, and give

6.p6 competition too great an advantage. This made him
peevish when any thing happened to delay our motion, [illegible]
cand I escape being suspected of making less hast than I

He found much fault with my scrupulous observing the Sabbath
ought to have done. All the ground he had for this, was,
my fixt Resolution of observing the Sabbath, and fa-
vouring the Horses.
I reproved him for this unjust busuneasiness
[illegible], letting him understand, that I had both as much
business & as much inclination to be at home as he had:
but for all that, woudwas determind to make no more hast than good speed|
We crost Hico-Ottomony Creek twice in sixthis March, and
travers't very uneaven and very thick woods as far as
Sugar-Tree Creek. This was no more than 7 miles, but
equal in fatigue to double that distance on good ground.
Near this Creek our men killd a young Buffalo of
2 year old, that was as big as a large ox. He had very
short legs, and a very deep Body, with Shagged Hair on
his head and Shoulders. His horns were short and very
strong. The hair on his Shoulders is soft resembleing
wool, and may be spun into thread. The flesh is arrant
Beef, all the difference is, that the fat of it inclines more
to be yellow. The Species seems to be the same, because
a Calf produced betwixt Tame cattle & these will propa-
gate. Our People were so well pleasd with Buffalo-Beef,
that the Gridiron was upon the fire all night. In ourthis
March this daydays March I lost one of mythe Gold Buttons out of my
sleeve, which I bore the more patiently because that & the
burning my Boots were all the damage I had sufferd.

12.

We coud not decamp before 11, the People being so much en-
gaged with their Beef. I found it always a Rule that
the greater our Plenty, the later we were in fixing out. We

11.p7

[missing preceding 4 pages]he had gaind of the Country. He killd a fat Buck, great
part of which he left us for aby way of Legacy, the rest he cut into
pieces, toasted them before the fire, & then strung them
upon his Girdle to serve him for his Provisions in his
way to Christanna-Fort where his nation lived. We lay
in the Tent, notwithstanding there was a clean LandLady &
good Beds, which gave the men an opportunity of get-
ing a House over their Heads, after having for 2 months
had no Covering but that of Heaven the Firmament.

17.

This Being Sunday besides performing the Dutys of the
day, we christend Tho. Page one of our men, thatwho had
been bread a Quaker, & [Meanwell] & I were his Gossips. Se-
veral of the Neighbors came, partly out of Curiosity, and
partly out of Devotion. Amongst the rest came a young
woman which lives in comfortable Fornication with Cor-
nelius Cargil, and has several children by him. Meanwell
bought a Horse of this man, in which he was Jockyed.
Our Eys as well as our Tast were blesst with a Surloin
of Roast beef, and we drank pleasure to our wives in a
glass of Shrubb. Not content with this moderate Refresh
ment, my Friends carryd on the Joke with Bombo made
of execrable Brandy the manufacture of the Place.
I preacht against it tho' they minded me as little at night,
as they had done Humdrum in the morning: but most
of them paid for it by being extreemly sick. This day I
discharged John Holms and Tho. Page with a reasonable
allowance of days to for theirreturn home.

18.

This day we endeavourd to set out early, but were hinderd
by Edwd Powels not finding some of his Horses. This man had
everalways been negligent in that particular, but amongst the Inha- 12.p8 bitants was more careless than ordinary. It was therefore
thought high time to discharge him, and carry our Bag-
gage as well as we coud to Cornelius Cargills, who lived
about 7 miles off, and there hire his cart to transport it
as far as Majr Mumfords. We made the best shift we coud,
and haveing presentedcrosst Mrs Rileys hand with a Pistole, we
moved towards Cargils, where we arrivd about 2 a clock.
Here we put the Heavy Baggage into the cart, tho' I orderd
mine to continue on my own Horses, lest some disaster
might happen to this frail vehicle. Then appointing a
a Guard to attend the Bagage, we proceeded 5 miles far-
ther to George Hixes Plantation, where Preparation was
made to entertain us.| By the way we met John Davis that
brought me Letters from home, & from Majr Mumford, in
answer to those I had sent to them by this Express. He had
indeed been almost as expeditious as a carrier-Pigeon for
he went from Miles Rileys on Saturday, & he met us this
day being Munday early in the afternoon 3 miles be-
fore we got to George Hixes. By the Letters he brought
I had the pleasure to hear that all my Family was well
thank God. That my Little SonHeir Apparent had been extreamly ill
but was recoverd, howevernevertheless the danger he had been in
had givengave birth to the Report that he was dead. All
my Company expected that now the bad news woud be
confirmd. This made Meanwell stand at a convenient dis-take a convenient station
tance to observe with how much temper I shoud receive
such melancholly Tydings. But not finding any
change in my Countenance, he venturd so to ask me
how it fared with my Family, and I must gratefully
own, that both He and the whole Company discoverd a great 13.p9 deal of satisfaction where they understood my Heir apparentthat the Report provd false,
was alive. They then told me with how much care they had
conceald from me the Reportfame of his being dead, being unwill-
ing to make me uneasy upon so much incertainty.| We got to
Geo. Hixes before 4 a clock, and both he and his lively little
wife receivd us very civillycourteously. His house stands on an Eminence
from whence is a good Prospect. Every thing lookt clean &
wholesome, which made us resolve to quit the Tent, and
betake ourselves to the House.| All the Grandees of the Saponi
nation waited here to see us, and our Fellow Travellor Red
Bearskin was amongst the gravest of them. Four Ladys
of Quality came with themgraced their visit, who were less besmeard with
grease & dirt than any copper-coulourd Beautys I had
ever seen. The men too had an air of decency very uncom-
mon, and what was a greater curiosity most of this good
company came on Horse back. The men rode more awkward
ly than sailors, and the women who sat astride, were so
bashfull they woud not mount their naggsPonys til they were
quite out of Sight.| Chrstanna fort, where these In-
dians live, lyes 3 miles from Geo. Hixes Plantation.
He has considerable Dealings with them, & supplys them
too plentifully with Rumm, which kills more of them than
the northern Indians do, & causes all the muchDisorder amongst
them. Majr Mumford was so good as to send me a Horse, be-
lieveing that mine was sufficiently jaded, and Colo Bol-
ling sent me another. With the last I complemented Ori-
on-, who had marcht on foot greatgood part of the way from
the mountains. When we saluted Mrs Hix, she bobb'd up her
mouth like an eelwith more than ordinary Elasticity, & gave us a good opinion of her other motions.
Capt Embry, who lives uponon Nottoway River met us here, and
gave us an invitation to make our next stage at his house. He[re] 14.p10 I dischargd John Evans Stephen Evans Will: Poole, George
Tilman Geo. Hamilton & James Petillo, allowing them somefor their distance
to go home. Our Course from Miles Rileys Inwards held
generally about N.E. & the Road very levil.

19.

We dispatch't away the Cart under a Guard by 9 a clock, &
after complementing our Landlord with a Pistole for feeding
us & our Horses, we followd about 11. about a mile from the
house we crost Meherrin River which being very low, was
not more than 20 yards wide. About 5 miles farther we
past over Meherrin-Creek almost as wide as the River.
From thence 8 miles we went over Sturgeon CreekRun & 6 miles
beyond that we met withcame upon Wick-quoi Creek where the stream
is swift, and tumbles over the Rocks very agreeablysolemnly. This makes
broad low-grounds in many Places & abundance of goodrich land.
About 2 miles more brought us to our worthy Freind Capt
Embreys habitation, where we found the Housekeeping
much better than the House. In that the noble Capt is not very
curious, his castle consisting of one dirty Room with an
ancienta dragging door to it that will neither shut nor open. However
my Landlady made us amends by Provideing a supper suffi-
cient for a compleat RegimentBatallion. I was a little chocqued at
our first alighting with a sight I did not expect. Most of
the men I dischargd yesterday were got here before us, and
within a few good-downs of being drunk. I shewd so
much concern at this, that they had so muchthe modesty as
to retire. Mr Walker met us here, and kindly invited us
to his house being about 5 miles wide of this Place. I shoud
have been glad to accept of this civility but coud not with de-
cency put such a slurr upon our kind Freind the captain,
who had made abundant Provision for us. For this reason
we chose to drink water, and stow thick in a dirty Room, ra-
ther 15.p11 than give our Black-eyd Landlady the trouble of makeing
a Feast to no purpose. She had set all her Spits, Pots, Frying pans
gridirons and ovens at work to pamper us up after fasting so long, as
she thought, in the wilderness. The worst part of her civility
was that she made us eat of every thing which obliged 2 of
the nine that lay in onethe Room to rise at a very unseason-
able time of night.

20.

Mr Walker came to us again in the morning and was so kind
as to bring us some wine and Cyder along with him. He also
lent Meanwell Horse for himself, and me another for one of
my servantsmen. We had likewise a visit from Colo Bolling,
who had been surveying in the neighborhood. Our Landlord,
who is a dealer in Rumm, let me have some for the men, &
had the humility, tho' a captain, to accept of a Pistole for
our Entertainment. I dischargd John Ellis & James Whit-
lock, at this Place.allowing them a reasonable time to go home. It was 12
a clock before we coud get loose from hence the civility of this place,
and then we past Nottoway River just below Capt Embrys
house, where it was about 15 yards over. This River divides
Prince George County from Brunswick. We had the compa-
ny of Colo Bolling & Mr Walker along with us, who
coud not heartily approve of our [Lithuanian] Custome of walking part of
the way| At the distance of 11 miles we crost Stony Creek, and
5 miles farther we went over Gravelly Run, which is wide enough
to merit the name of a creek. We past by Saponi Chappel [illegible]this side[illegible]and after
30 good miles we arrivd Safe at Colo Bollings, where we were
entertaind with much Plenty & civility. Among abundance of
other good things he regaled us with excellent Cyder. While Meanwell
and I fared deliciously here, our 2 Surveyors & the [Revd] Doctor in com-
plement to their horses stuck close to the Baggage. They reacht no
farther than 18 miles, & took up their Quarters at James Hudsons, 16.p12 where their Horses were better provided for than their Masters.
There was no more than one bed to pig into, with one Cotten
Sheet and the other of Brown ozzenbrugs made brouner by
a months servicePersperation. This mortifyd Orion to the Soul, so
that the other 2 were happy enough in laughing at him.
Tho I think they ought all to have been perfectly satisfyd
with the mans hospitality who was content to lye out of
his own Bed to make room for them.

21.

These Gentlemen quitted their sweet Lodging so early, that
they reacht Colo Bollings time enough to eat a hearty mealfor
Breakfast. With us Mr . Mumfords pretty Wife was very
ill here, which had alterd herpretty face beyond all knowledge. I took
upon me to prescribe to her and my advice succeeded very
well as I understood afterwards. About 11 a clock we took
leave and proceeded to Majr Mumfords, where I discharged
the Cart, and the few men that remaind with me, assureing
them that their Behaviour had engaged me to do them any
service that lay in my power. I had no sooner settled all
these affairs but my Wife & Eldest Daughter arrivd in
the Chair to meet me. Besides the pleasure of embraceing
them, they made me happy by letting me understand that
the rest of the Family were extreamly well. blessed be God
Our treatment was as civil as possible in this good Family.
I wrote a Letter to send by Orion—to the Governour, and
the Evening we spent at Cards, and ingiving an account of our Travels and drinking the best
Cyder I ever tasted. in my life. The men I dischargd this day
were Peter Jones, Thomas Jones, Thomas Jones Junr , Richard
Smith, Thomas Short and Abraham Jones, who were not far
from their several habitations. These were all chosen men &
had been very usefull, and very obligeing the whole Journey
and woud on any occasion attend me without expecting any pay.

17.p13

22.

I sent away Meanwells Baggage and my own about ten a clock,
he intending to go along with metake Westover in his way home. When we
had filld our Bellysfortifyd our Selves with a Meat-Breakfast, and finisht our
Business, we took leave about 12, and turned our faces toward,
Westover. My Wife and I rodein the Chair, and my Daughter
on Mrs Betty Mumford's horse. an Easy Pad She had borrowd. Mrs Mumford had beenwas so
kind as to undertake to spin my Buffalo's Hair, in order
to knit me somea pair of Stockins. Orion took histhe nearest way
to Williamsburgh, Astrolabe to Goochland, and Humdrum
to Mount Misery, the place of his Habitation. We call'd
on Mr FitzGerald, to advise him what method to take
with his sick child: but nature had done her ownthe bu-
siness, and removd his feaver before we came. We arrivd

at Coggins Point about 4, where William Wilkins my servants attended
with both my Boats, in order to transport us to Westover.
I had the happiness to find all mythe Family well Blessed
be God. This crownd all my other Blessings, and made
the Journey truly prosperous, For ofwhich I hope I shall
ever retain a gratefull remembrance as long as I live. Nor
was it all, that my People were in good health, but my
Business was likewise in good order. Everyone seemd
to have done their duty, by the Joy they expresst at my Re-
turn. My Neighbours had been kind to my Wife, when she
was distrest by the dangerous illnessthreatened with the Loss of her Son & Heir.
Their Assistance was then verykind as well as seasonable, when her Child
was threatend with fatal symptomes, and her Husband
was upon a long Journey exposd toand great variety of Perils.
Thus surrounded with the most fearfull apprehentions, Hea-
ven was pleasd to support her spirits, toand bring back her dear
child from the Gates of Death, and soon after herthe Grave and Husband
from howling Desert in safety & Reputationthe mountains., for which Blessings
may we be all sincerely & everlastingly thankfull.